1999~B Work Done
Friday,
July 2
Picked up the water tank from M&P Custom Design. Wasn't quite complete but the little welding remaining was completed. Water tested it and had to touch up a couple of welds that were leaking. Tank is constructed of 16-gauge galvanized sheet metal. Fittings and such are stainless steel. Mike DeFazio believes the longer time it took to weld the tank would have more than been offset if stainless steel had been used. The sheet metal tended to twist and warp from the heat. Mike indicated that stainless would have required less heat and been easier to control as well as faster to weld.

Also picked up the copper piping pieces which had been welded for the steam exhaust line after the feed water heater.

Dry-fit the water tank to the underside of the car. It fits and things line up. Cleaned up the welds and then applied a spray coat of cold galvanizing spray paint to all surfaces to cover where the welding had burned away the galvanizing.
Saturday,
July 3
One of those hot, humid, where you can see the air type days in Delaware. I know one shouldn't paint galvanized metal and sure enough the gray cold galvanize I sprayed on the exterior of the water tank yesterday is coming off easily with a fingernail scrape. Ground down the two center standoffs for the through bolts so that a washer could be placed on top of them to spread the force more even across the wood floorboards. Installed a valve at the front lower right corner of the tank so that water is available should it be needed during a run. Stanley didn't originally install such a valve but in driving Tom's cars I've come to learn that having a little cool water to quench something or to clean one's hands can be helpful.

Ovaled the holes in the wood floorboards and the frame mounting brackets for the tank center rods. Slight differences in the tank through holes and the mounting brackets had the rods binding slightly during yesterday's dry fit so ovaling the holes allows the bolts to float more.

Also ovaled the center rod holes in the two tank straps. The location of the two through holes is different in each strap even though the holes are positioned in line in the tank. Ovaling of these holes will allow the straps to fit the tank better. Spray painted the straps flat black along with the mounting nuts and washers. Ran a 3/8" - 14 die on the four bolts which hold the end of the tank straps to clean up the threads.

Installed the copper piping to the steam oil separator and put the assembly in place. Everything fits very well -- just as if it were designed there originally. Dry fit the copper piping from the bottom of the condenser to the water tank. The pipe will need to be soldered to the brass radiator fitting and will need about a 30-degree bend at the tank end to line up with the infeed line to the tank.
Monday,
July 5
Feel like I finally might be getting near the end. Very hot day with temperature around 100F. Anthony Zych, Mom & Dad, and I took Tom Marshall's Model 76 in the Hockessin Parade for the 4th. It was almost as hot but had more humidity. Tomorrow is supposed to be around 104F.

Water tank all bolted in place. Water pumps installed and reconnected. Pump drive installed. Sounds like a simple effort but it was more than that. The tank alignment was off just enough to make alignment of the pump mounting holes a mess. Working inside the narrow pump box to tighten everything makes things take much longer because the wrench can only be moved a few degrees before it has to be removed, flipped over, and a few more degrees of movement managed. The work was not difficult (however the heat didn't help) just very time consuming. The slight misalignments that had to be fought with just slowed progress.

Perhaps of most concern is the pump drive rod crank arm and pump drive rod. Sometime in the past something went wrong big-time in the pump drive as evidenced by the gouges and marks insides the drive gearbox cover. The pump drive rod has also been sleeved with a heavier piece of tubing or rod. If the pump drive rod is tightened completely to the drive crank arm then the rod interferes with the crank center shaft which has been welded sometime in the past. The only way for this to work reasonable is to leave the crank arm end nut a flat loose and secure it with the cotter pin so that there is enough play to permit the drive rod to pass the crank arm's shaft. We'll have to watch this mechanism and if necessary replace the works with perhaps something that Tom Marshall has as a spare.

At this point putting the kerosene tank on the rear of the car is the next big project. Once the water return line between the water automatic and the condenser is complete along with the water feed line to the boiler a pressure test can be done. Insulation on the burner grate and final assemble of the main burner components and the car should be ready for its first steam-up. End of July target date is still feasible at this time.
Wednesday,
July 7
Using a piece of channel steel between the right rear frame member that is bent downward and the hydraulic floor jack the rear of the car was lifted to put an upward force on the bent frame angle. Using a 1"x1" square block of steel and a large C-clamp the steel block and clamp was pressed on either side of the slight ripple in the down-leg of the bent frame angle. This removed the ripple and straightened the frame member back to being even with the matching member on the left side of the car.

Installed kerosene tank at rear of car on its two hanger straps. Installed the right and left spare tire brackets. Installed the license plate and tail light holder. Installed the pair of spare tire saddle castings on the brackets. Installed tie-rod that goes between both spare tire brackets after straightening the flattened ends. Fitted spare tire to the brackets.

Everything being square and in line is much better looking then the drooping arrangement of odd-ball parts that were on the car when it arrived. The gloss black paint on the tire brackets became scratched a bit in the process but with the poor paint condition of the tank things actually look all the same age. It will all get straightened out further when the car gets painted.
Saturday,
July 10
Connected up the kerosene return line to the kerosene tank. Mounted the kerosene fuel filter to the frame. Plumbed up the kerosene supply line to the filter. Plumbed up the filter to the suction line on the kerosene tank. Verified that all the kerosene system fitting were tight.

Filled the kerosene tank with about 8 gallons of white kerosene. Using a small vacuum/air compressor a vacuum was placed on the system at the line which feeds the manual fuel pump. Within a few seconds kerosene was drawn to that point. Using the kerosene hand pump about 20 pounds of pressure was raised in the fuel system. Opening the main fuel valve on the dash purged the lines through the steam automatic proving them to be free and open (including the low-water shut-down valve and the steam automatic). Using the hand pump the pressure was returned to about 25 pounds and then the system was pressurized with air to 90 PSI. Using the hand pump the pressure was raised to about 100 PSI when the fuel filter began leaking.

When using the hand pump to build kerosene system pressure, the kerosene supply lines from the check-valve at the kerosene tank to the main fuel pump are pressurized to system pressure in order to force fuel through the main fuel pump check valves and into the pair of kerosene pressure tanks under the right side of the car. The fuel filter can gasket won't hold above about 100 PSI and blows kerosene out with each pressure stroke of the kerosene hand pump. The solution to prevent this situation will be to add a second check-valve into the kerosene supply line between the fuel filter and the branch T that feeds the hand kerosene pump and the wheel-driven kerosene pump. Otherwise the system appears not to have any major leaks.
Sunday,
July 11
Delightful day. Just about 80F outside with low humidity and a light breeze. Events on the car went hand-in-hand with the weather. Overnight the kerosene fuel system dropped in pressure from 100 PSI to 60 PSI. Leaks are the fuel filter, under the pressure tanks, and pump packings. The pilot fuel system bled down from 20 PSI to 0 PSI. Will need to fill the pilot fuel system with hexane to determine where the leaks are so that they may be corrected.

Placed ceramic fiber-rope insulation in the burner valleys. Rope insulation was unwound into its three individual strands. Each strand was coated with a 50%-50% mixture of heavy duty vinyl wallpaper paste and wallpaper paste activator then pressed into the burner casting valleys.

Insulated the steam line that runs between the throttle and the superheater. First layer of insulation is 1" wide ceramic fiber insulation tape secured with a 50%-50% mixture of heavy duty vinyl wallpaper paste and wallpaper paste activator. Second layer of insulation is 2" wide exhaust header wrap also secured with the paste/activator combination. Once wrapped the exterior surface was hand-wiped with a coating of the paste/activator combination as an overcoat.

Filled the water supply tank almost full. With the kerosene tank at the rear of the car about 1/3 full and the water supply tank about 2/3rds full the frame is now sitting very much closer to the rear plate of the generator. Only about an inch space remains from the two-plus inches present before the liquid weight was added. It appears the generator coupling will need to be shortened about 3/4" in length so the generator can move closer to the center of the car and away from the channel frame. With any amount of spring action there might be an interference.

Hydrostatically tested the boiler, water, and steam lines to 600 PSI. Several copper flare fittings required tightening and the steam automatic needed the diaphragm tightened. The worst leak was the 1/2" pipe connection between the throttle brass angle bracket and its coupling. Tightened it one round which helped but it still wants to leak slightly. Will hope that the initial steamings allow rust to seal this small drip. Pressure holds well and drops off about 100 PSI in 3 minutes. No leaks in any of the boiler flues. Throttle action is smooth and doesn't leak.

Burner was final assembled. Installed the kerosene vaporizer, pilot assembly, and main burner nozzle assembly. The burner is ready for installation under the boiler.
Tuesday,
July 13
With further thought in hand and a conversation with Tom Marshall having occurred it seems a certainty that the spring action of the car will insure the car frame will contact the bearing hub of the generator. Removed the generator from the car and the coupling between the generator shaft and the generator drive shaft located to the left side of the differential. Investigation reveals that if the threaded ends on both shafts are removed (the current installation has both shaft ends touching within an 1/8" of each other) it will allow the generator to move closer to the differential by a little over an inch thus opening up sufficient space between the car frame and the rear of the generator for the required clearance. The coupling will require modification to both shorten its length and reduce its diameter. As the coupling is keyed on both shafts the use of set-screws will be sufficient to lock each coupling half to its respective shaft (currently the coupling is slid on its shaft and a nut/lockwasher combination screwed on to hold it in place).

Attempted to remove the filter can on the fuel filter assembly located in the main burner kerosene supply line under the left rear passenger seat. The pressure of the fuel while manually pumping up system pressure looks to have blown the sealing gasket out its recess when the pressure got near 100 PSI. Unfortunately the pressure jammed the can on the mounting bracket threads and the only way to remove the can required the use of a pipe wrench which crushed the can (tried oil filter wrenches and a strap wrench with no success). Searched through Bruce's fuel filter catalogs for an alternate fuel filter. Identified a small 1" diameter by 1-1/2" long in-line steel can filter to use. As Bruce had one in stock it was installed. It did not leak when the kerosene system was pressurized to 140 PSI so for the time being this appears to be the way to go.

In pumping up the main burner fuel system to operating pressure the pressure regulator started opening and regulating to 140 PSI thus bleeding kerosene back to the supply tank. The operation of the pressure regulator appears to be in order. Likewise the manual water pump was able to pressurize the boiler to nearly 500 PSI (as the boiler is still absolutely full of water it is a hydrostatic test) before it simply became too hard to operate the pump's handle.
Wednesday,
July 14
Fit the exhaust flue into position at the rear of the boiler and in front of the firewall. Made the necessary modifications to the smoke box exhaust duct to slip inside the exhaust flue. Loose fit the smoke box to the top of the boiler. After an initial steaming up to insure all the boiler flues are sealed the smoke box is ready to be installed.
Thursday,
July 22
Filled pilot tank with hexane. Pressurized pilot tank to 30 PSI and found it not to hold pressure due to a leak at the fill cap. Tried several O-rings but they would not seal it. Solution will be to put a neoprene plug in the cap or to fill the cap with lead and hope that a seal may be obtained.

Painted the band that will seal the joint between the smoke box exhaust and the exhaust duct.
Saturday,
July 24
Installed 1/8" thick piece of thermal board to the front of the firewall where the exhaust flue will run to protect the firewall from the heat. Also installed a piece of thermal board on the back slanted side of the exhaust flue that will be adjacent to the water tank. Installed the exhaust flue. Installed the water siphon and its steam supply line. Installed the blow-down exhaust lines for the right rear blow-down, left rear blow-down, and the water indicator center blow-down.

Mounted the burner under the boiler. In order for the kerosene lines to the vaporizer coil to clear the exhaust duct it was necessary to trim part of the alignment band on the superheater ring. This allowed the burner to be rotated clockwise to gain the necessary clearance for the exhaust duct and provide better access to the pilot through the pilot access door in the side of the car. Installed the pilot line between the pilot valve and the pilot feed at the side of the burner.

Cut a 3/4" diameter and 1" diameter plug of 1/4" thick neoprene for the pilot tank fill cap and installed them. That seemed to fix the leak in the pilot system. Found the pilot fuel filter to be leaking so it was tightened.

With everything in order it was finally time to see if all the efforts of the past 19 months would bear fruit. Using a torch the pilot vaporizing tube was heated. After a few minutes the pilot valve was opened and the pilot burst to life at 3:15 PM. Excellent blue flame on the pilot and very strong. In fact it is so strong that it will need to be throttled somewhat. The 30 PSI pressure on the tank was too much and it was reduced to 15 PSI to provide a smaller pilot flame. Still the pilot valve had to be kept nearly closed to keep the pilot at a respectable level. Let the pilot burn for an hour and a quarter before shutting it down. In that time the water in the superheater turned to steam and the boiler was heated sufficiently that one could not hold their hand on it for too long. Tomorrow the kerosene line gets connected to the main burner vaporizer and we'll try and make steam.
Sunday,
July 25
Tightened the various bolts on the pilot and generally checked things over from yesterday's first lighting of the pilot. Installed the steam enema line and the kerosene supply line to the fitting at the main burner vaporizer. Pressurized the pilot fuel system to 30 PSI. Pressurized the main fuel system to 40 PSI with air and then using the hand pump raised the fuel pressure to 120 PSI. Drained a bucket of water from the boiler.

After using a torch (the Stanley ignition key) to preheat the pilot vaporizer the pilot fuel valve was opened and the pilot lit. It lit easily but had to be throttled back with the pilot valve. Attempted to light the main burner with the firing-up valve. Main burner nozzle was real wet and fuel sprayed from the fitting that allows access to the vaporizer cleaning wire. Shut down the pilot and let things cool a bit. The fitting had a hole in its side and required replacement with an 1/8" brass pipe 2" long with a brass cap.

Relit the pilot and after it had run for awhile attempted to light the main burner again with the firing-up valve. Fuel now leaked from the compression fitting at the bottom of the steam automatic. Tightening the fitting did not correct the problem so the tube was removed and found to not have a flare. How I ever got that installed is beyond me. Replaced the copper tubing with another piece.

Attempted to light the main burner a third time. Three's a charm as the vaporizer was more than hot enough to fully vaporize all the pilot fuel (hexane). The main burner lit off with the classic "poof" sound. As the vapor was not at all wet the firing-up valve was closed and the main burner kerosene valve was opened. The kerosene was dry and a noticeable increase in burner noise indicated the main burner was being fueled by kerosene (1:15 PM). There were no leaks to be found in the main burner fuel system. The kerosene valve was not opened fully to limit the amount of heat initially applied to the boiler. Smoke started coming from everything and everywhere around the boiler as the oils and other unknowns began to burn off as the temperature increased.

Within a short time steam was issuing from the engine. The throttle was closed to limit this loss. While the boiler steam pressure slowly climbed the valve access cover was screwed on the underside of the engine in preparation for running and a wooden chock placed under the left wheel to keep it from turning.

The main burner valve was opened fully when the steam pressure reached 100 PSI. Looking through some of the small holes around the blow-off pipes at the bottom of the boiler revealed an excellent fire. Peering down through the flues showed the fire to be mostly blue and burning all over the grate. When the steam pressure reached 475 PSI the steam automatic shut-off the kerosene supply to the main burner. This is 100 PSI lower than the automatic should close however after the rebuild of the steam automatic I left it set low.

The throttle was opened and the steam engine sprang to life. The right rear wheel started to rotate and the pumps started operation. The overall sound of the engine is good; there doesn't seem to be any knocking or similar odd noises coming from it.

The main fuel system's kerosene pump raised the main fuel system pressure to 140 PSI operating pressure and the relief valve operated to maintain this pressure as designed. The winker also was blinking indicating that oil was being sent into the steam line and back to the engine for cylinder lubrication. The water pumps appeared to be operating however with high water in the boiler and the water automatic cool there should have been water exiting the water automatic discharge. Some adjustment of the valve's setting produced the needed water from the valve indicating the boiler was full and the pumped water should recirculate back to the water tank.

Throughout about two hours of operation the main burner was lit and operated about a half dozen times. The fuel automatic operated at 450 to 475 PSI without any leaks. Steam exited the heat exchanger along with a load of hot water on several occasions. When the throttle was closed a load of water issued from the bottom of the engine. I suspect this is from the condensing of steam within the boiler feed water heater. The throttle closes down completely and there is no steam leakage. Several boiler flues leaked intermittently but sealed themselves. One flue, next to the double-valve for the siphon and enema seems to be leaking at the burner end of the boiler. A hiss is discernible coming from inside the tube but no steam seems to be escaping.

It has been 7 years since Marvin Klair last had steam on this car (1992). There's still a long way to go before it can make its first road trip and I confident that I'll be able to drive it back home. It has been 21 months since I purchased the car and 19 since I started restoring it. It has at times been frustrating and disappointing. It has been a great learning experience. It has also been fun and in its own way relaxing. It certainly has been perhaps the most expensive thing that I've ever done outside of buying the townhouse or a new car.

If all goes well trial drives should be in progress around Labor Day. With the Mt. Washington steam car tour only two weeks away and much to do on Tom's Model 76 if it is to be ready for me to drive in that tour, not much will happen with my Stanley till after the middle of August. At least I'll be able to say during the tour that things are progressing very well, and most importantly that the car seems to steam well.

Monday,
July 26
Looked over everything after yesterday's first firing. Finding that the boiler had siphoned and that the fuel systems were still at pressure was very gratifying. The boiler had siphoned the main water supply tank from 3/8 full on Sunday to 3/16 full today. The pilot pressure was 21.5 PSI on Sunday and had dropped to 20.5 today. The main burner kerosene system pressure took the biggest drop with it being 117 PSI on Sunday and 110 PSI today. It was interesting to find the top of the boiler still warm -- perhaps 90F or so; definitely warm to the touch.

Put the condenser back on the front of the car. Figured out how to connect the two 3/8" threaded ports at the top of the condenser together so that they may be connected to the water automatic. The thought is that instead of pumped water cycling directly back to the water tank from the water automatic it might serve to cool the condenser somewhat. The water flowing through the tubes of the condenser might cool the tubes somewhat and improve the efficiency of the condenser especially on hot days. For the flow to be to both sides of the condenser the port that is connected to the feed line will need to have a restriction placed in it so water is forced to the other port. Plugging the 3/8" T pipe fitting with a brass plug drilled with a 3/16" ID hole should force sufficient water from the 3/8" copper tubing supply line through both condenser ports.

Figured out the routing of the condenser return line to the water tank. Cut the 1-1/4" copper tubing to length and sanded the end of the pipe to make a compound bend so the pipe will align with the pipe of the water supply tank. Will need to have Mike DeFazio at M&P weld the joint.
Tuesday,
July 27
Both fuel systems still maintaining pressure.

Installed the discharge line from the water automatic to the two ports at the top of the condenser. Installed the support bracket and the oil drain valve on the steam oil separator. Installed the steam oil separator.
Saturday,
July 31
Worked on installing the condensate return line between the condenser and the water tank. Soldered the condenser 90-degree fitting to the copper line. On first installation the threads in the bottom cavity of the condenser stripped out. Had to remove the condenser from the car and remove the bottom cavity. Installed a 3/8" coupling nut by running a bolt through the old threaded boss and into the coupling nut. The bolt from the 90-degree fitting then threads into the opposite end of the coupling nut to make a secure connection. Reassembled the condenser and then reinstalled the condenser. The condensate line installed without incident. However, when retightening the top steam feed to the condenser that bolt stripped out. This will necessitate removal of the top cavity of the condenser to make a similar repair with a coupling nut. This will need to be done after returning from the Mt. Washington steam trip.

Installed the needle valve on the pilot fuel supply line to limit the pilot flame. It seems to work well in limiting the height of the pilot flame. It does add some delay to the pilot lighting after the pilot valve is opened.

Tony Alvarez made a tool to adjust the steam automatic. A piece of 1/4" x 1/2" rectangular stock with a 3/16" drill rod in it to turn the adjusting nut on the steam automatic. Turned the steam automatic nut two pin holes to increase the pressure at which the burner is shut down.

Fired the burner up for the second time. Ran the car on the jack stands for about 30 minutes. Main burner fuel system pressure pumps up to and holds at 140 PSI. The boiler was drained to about 1/2 on the water level indicator. The water automatic worked to return the boiler water lever to full and then started cycling water through the condenser. It appears that circulating water supply water through the condenser when it is not going to the boiler may work as no steam was visible from the overflow in the water supply tank. Water tank water does get warm. Noted three flues weeping and marked them for additional rolling. The flue leaking badly after the first firing is still leaking this time as well. Little more adjustment needed on the steam automatic to set it to shut down the burner at 550 PSI steam pressure.
Sunday,
August 1
The boiler siphoned a little more than 3/16" of a tank of water. Both fuel systems held pressure from yesterdays operation.

Took care of a handful of odds and ends before firing up for the third time. Rolled the three flues identified yesterday as weeping. Removed the stem of the manual water automatic bypass valve and coated it with Teflon pipe dope to stop it from leaking when water is being sent to the boiler. Installed a drain line on the steam oil separator. Tightened the main burner kerosene pump packing. Checked the engine case oil level. Tightened all the bolts on the pilot fuel lines.

Removed the engine valve access cover and discovered very little lubricating oil being delivered to the engine. The lubricating oil pump was operating with a stroke of 7/16". Set it up to 1-1/8" of stroke and found the setting clamp screw loose which means the setting had changed.

Dropped the car off the jack stands. Put air in the tires as required. Water drained from the boiler looks rather clear and clean. Fired up for the third time. With 200 PSI of steam the car moved out of the garage under its own power. Tight fit getting the car out of the garage through the left door. Upon driving up the driveway the main burner back-fired. Shut down the main burner fuel and let it burn out. Returned to the garage and refired the main. With pressure at 550 PSI I shut down the main burner so it wouldn't relight and I took the car for a spin. Went around the house and then made two loops around the field. Plenty of power. Rides well. Steering a little stiff. The brakes work well -- better than my Oldsmobile! With 350 PSI steam pressure stopped to relight the main burner but it back-fired. Returned to the garage by going around the shop. Tried several times to get the main burner to relight but each time it back-fired. It appears that there is a leak at the joint above the pilot as flames show in the pilot window when the main burner is fed fuel. The burner wants to light but the added fire, etc in the pilot enclosure causes the main to back-fire. Also not having a stack blower to cool the burner inlet doesn't help matters.

I also think it is time to complete insulating the smoke box and get it attached to the top of the boiler. Having the stack blower should go a long way to helping the back-firing problem and being able to cool the main burner mixing tube will also be an advantage. Likewise the generator needs to be reinstalled with its shorter shafts and modified coupling. A battery can be installed and we can see if the electrical system is operating properly.

With the main lubricating pump stroke increased better oiling was evident in the cylinder drip valve. The run wasn't long enough to be able to determine if the setting is too great -- I suspect that it is. Engine packings are now blowing and will also need some attention. The new hydraulic brakes seem responsive and will easily lock the rear wheels. Steering is stiffer than I had hoped and there seems to be some binding in the steering column at the steering wheel. There seemed to be a lot of water in the pump box which indicates the main pump packings need some additional tightening as well.

All considered it was a good day. It would have been nice to have been able to run the car more but the burner leak ended that desire. Had the burner not acted up I was prepared to take a quick ride around the block and see how things did at speed. Then a few passenger rides might have occurred. With the back-firing of the burner and things much too hot to handle to effect repairs the day of riding was cut short. I'm sure Dad, Bruce, and the kids would have liked a ride but it was not to be. In the short ride I did have in the car I found it to be well powered -- almost acting like Tom Marshall's Model 76. Riding around the field the ride was not all that bad considering the roughness of the field.

Passenger rides will have to wait until after the steam tour at Mt. Washington/Gorham that starts on 8/6/99 and runs through 8/15/99. When I return I'll drop the burner to inspect how it is holding up after three firings. That will also give me the opportunity to see what is leaking on the one flue and make a proper repair to that. I'll also have the opportunity to study the burner and see what is leaking. No doubt a number of the pilot fittings will need a few flats of tightening.

Tuesday,
August 17
Its back to working on my Stanley after the 1999 Steam Tour in Gorham, New Hampshire at Mt. Washington. Put away all the tools and supplies that I had packed for the trip.

Removed the burner for inspection. Outside of carbon on much of the main mixing tube and on the outside of the pilot access door due to the backfiring of the main burner the last time under steam, things look amazingly good. Removed the pilot assembly and all appears well. Removed the main burner nozzle and it appears that the leaking was at the copper washer where the nozzle assemble mates to the vaporizer block. There are signs that the copper washer was not totally tight against the mating block. Additionally the set screw that clamps the nozzle into the block was difficult to turn. Never-seize had been applied but it took a good bit of effort to get the set screw to turn out of the clamp plate. Running the set screw in and out of the clamp plate freed up the set screw to turn with ease again. I wasn't able to tighten the set screw before the third firing of the burner and this was probably due to the tightness of the screw in the plate rather than the screw applying a strong clamping force on the nozzle pipe to the vaporizer block.

Found one of the flange strips of the superheater ring had come loose from the main ring assembly. The strip was tack-welded to the ring and the tack welds had come broken loose. Removed the superheater ring and superheater pipe so that the loose strip could be welded by Mike DeFazio at M&P Custom Design.

Looked at the leaking flue tube. No wetness showed. Using the manual fuel/water hand pump applied 600 PSI hydrostatic pressure to the boiler. Pressure held and no leaking or wetness appeared at the flue that has the steam leak. It appears that it will only leak under steam pressure. No further attention will be paid unless it starts leaking real bad. Overall the boiler looks to be doing fine at the burner end.
Friday,
August 20
Repaired the supply connection on the condenser. Disconnected the steam feed line and water lines to the top of the condenser. Removed all of the bolts from the top of the condenser so that the cap could be removed. The threads in the boss within the cap were stripped. Drilled out the remaining threads and installed a 3/8" - 16 coupling nut by running a bolt through the old threaded boss and into the coupling nut. The bolt from the 90-degree fitting then threads into the opposite end of the coupling nut to make a secure connection. Reassembled the cap onto the condenser. As an assortment of bolts had been used all were replaced with #12-24 x 1" long brass flat head machine bolts. Reconnected the steam feed line and water lines to the top of the condenser.

Worked on the two turn signal brackets which will support the turn signal indicators at either side of the spare tire. Ground the 7/8" hole end of each bracket so that the bracket would slide on with the spare tire saddle casting and be held in place when the casting was tightened on its mounting. Painted both brackets.

Cut to length and installed the 1/2" OD flexible metal conduit that will route wiring from the electrical junction box near the master cylinder to the stop and tail light. Cut to length and soldered brass compression ferrules on the the two lengths of 1/2" OD flexible metal conduit that will connect each turn signal to the electrical junction box at the rear of the car.
Saturday,
August 21
Picked up the superheater ring from M&P Custom design where the flange strips had been welded to the ring to provide a more secure attachment.

Wired, assembled, and installed the two turn signal indicators. Reinstalled the generator with the revised coupling. Connected the generator to its wiring harness. Mounted the headlights. Using a 1.5 ampere battery charger energized the car's electrical system. Installed fuses and checked out the parking light circuit and dash light circuit. The turn signals do not want to operate perhaps because the battery charger is not putting out pure DC power.
Thursday,
August 26
At the Mt. Washington Steam Tour Brent Campbell had brand new Stanley logo Houk wire wheel medallions in the center of the wheel attachment hubs. Brent provided information as to where he had them made. I contacted the supplier and found out that if I send an order to them they will make up a set of five and ship them by late October. I shall order five of the medallions The company that makes them is;

Pulfer & Williams
c/o Bill Williams
PO Box 67
213 Forrest Road
Handcock, New Hampshire 03449
Saturday,
August 28
Installed the battery and connected it to the car's electrical system.

Reinstalled the superheater ring. Mixed up a 50%-50% mixture of heavy duty vinyl wallpaper paste and wallpaper paste activator. Shredded some of the scrap cuts of ceramic insulation and mixed it with the wallpaper paste. Applied the insulation and paste mixture to the pipe openings around the superheater ring and the smoke box to block off any air leaks.

Removed the steering wheel and lubricated the felt bushing at the top of the steering wheel shaft. Greased the inside of the steering wheel where it slips over the steering column housing.

Installed the secondary clamp on the throttle casting to hold the throttle rigid to its mounting rod. Readjusted the throttle linkage as the clamp no longer let the throttle move when the throttle lever was pulled off. Installed the throttle rod clamp between the steering column and the throttle rod just above the steering box.

Tightened all bolts on the pilot assembly and main burner. Reinstalled the pilot in the burner casting. Reassembled the main burner nozzle assembly so that the burner may be reinstalled under the boiler.

Reworked the siphon supply piping. Removed the old brass pipe which was designed to have a hose slid over it and replaced it with a male hose fitting. Assembled the siphon suction screen to a 6" length of brass pipe and a female hose fitting. The siphon hose can now be any length of garden hose which will serve as either a siphon of a fill hose from a water spigot.
Sunday,
August 29
Removed the steam chest inspection cover to see how the steam oil was being distributed on the valves and in the engine. Everything covered with oil. Decided that it was a bit excessive so the stroke of the oil pump was decreased to 5/8" (1-1/8" to 1-3/4").

Installed the burner and reconnected the kerosene and hexane fuel lines. On lighting the pilot there was flame at the hex standoff. Shut down the pilot and removed the pilot assembly to tighten the hex standoff that connects to the 1/2" square hexane supply. On relighting the pilot the flaming was not present. On firing up the main burner there was a lot of yellow flame in the pilot box. It appears to be coming from the burner itself as the flames tended to be real yellow. After operating for a period of time the black smoke of the main burner cleared up and the yellow flames in the pilot box seemed to not be as pronounced.

Made up steam and ran the car. As it seemed to be operating properly I took to the road. Did a number of laps which consisted of leaving the house driveway and turning right on Old Limestone Road. At Limestone Road I turned right to go in front of the shop. Near Rt 41 I again turned right onto Old Limestone Road and back to the house. I made a number of laps.

Perhaps the worst problem is that the burner whistles rather loudly when under full fire. The whistling must be addressed before too long as it is very loud. Steam pressure wants to run between 300 & 400 PSI. The main burner also wanted to backfire and burn in the mixing tube on occasion. The steam blower would pull the fire out and as the pilot never went out it was easy to reignite the burner on kerosene. The backfiring may be do to the insulation on the grate not being efficient enough. Perhaps I'll have to use asbestos.

The pilot tank also wants to drop pressure faster than I experience with Tom's Model 76. They are two very different pilots but still I think the pressure drop is a bit quick. This pressure drop causes the flame to diminish which is also not good. At high pressure I have to close the needle valve while at low pressure I have to open it up a bit. Not having a handle on the pilot needle valve is another problem that needs attention. Perhaps a small regulator might be better.

Installed the cable between the speedometer and the wheel drive. The speedometer seems to work well but does stick on occasion and not return to zero. A gently tap drops the dial back to zero. Perhaps a little use will remedy this problem.

The generator starts supplying power at about 30 MPH to start charging the battery. At about 10 MPH it drops back off line. It has the capacity to run the headlights (both) and directional signal which will be good.

Made numerous laps around around the shop using Limestone Road and Old Limestone Road totaling 7 miles. The water automatic seems to be mounted too high as the boiler water level indicator shows full all the time and the operation of the engine sounds wet. Tried making adjustments but that didn't seem to get it to work. It almost appears that the valve is not closing tightly. Perhaps the main problem is not enough drop to it. I'm also now convinced that it is mounted to high and needs to be an inch lower as well as on more of an angle.

Boiler steam leaks were not present. The minute steam leaks appear to have rusted shut. There was some water vapor when the pilot was initially lit indicating perhaps some leaks present but by the end of the day things seemed quiet. At the end of the day the pressure relief valve was whisping a small amount. This is a first for this valve. Hopefully it won't inhibit siphoning from occurring.

All in all a good day. Burner whistle needs correction and I need to address the backfiring problem. An improvement in the pilot system pressure is warranted to keep the pilot flame burning more evenly throughout the day. The water automatic will need further attention as well. Lubricating oil dripped from the drip valve but none seemed to get to the condenser or the water tank and the blow-down was clean. Another inspection of the steam chest is warranted.

It was nice to take her to the road. Knowing the generator and speedometer are operational is also good. Bruce was surprised that I took to the road with it. There are problems yet to be ironed out but all in all it is operating like a classic Stanley

Friday,
September 3
Removed the sight glass from winker and found the base casting to be loaded with thick oil and goo. Moving the plunger on the steam oil pump did not pump oil into the winker chamber. Removed the oil discharge line from the pump and moving the pump plunger still did not produce any oil flow from the pump discharge. In fact it acted like the check valves in the pump were not operating. Decided that the best solution was to totally disassemble and clean the steam oil pump.

Found the pump to be full of heavy, thick oil and goo and to have packing that was as hard as a rock. The oil pump had not been rebuilt when the kerosene and water pumps were removed from the pump box and rebuilt last summer (mainly because I didn't want oil all over everything and I was unfamiliar in the pump and winker construction). The pump was cleaned in the parts washer and glass beaded. New packing was installed and the rebuilt pump reinstalled in the pump box.

Upon removing the oil feed line to the pump no oil flowed from the supply line. Decided the best course of action was to remove the steam oil tank and clean it. The oil in the supply tank was drained and found to be a lot heavier than what Tom Marshall uses. Tom had mentioned that Marvin always used a real heavy oil and that I should thin it a bit with kerosene. I drained the oil from the copper supply tank into another storage can and added about 12 ounces of kerosene. After mixing it with a paint stir on the electric drill it was thinner and more like what Tom uses. In cleaning the supply tank the screen was heavily plugged. Soaking the tank in the parts washer cleaned the oil from the inside and cleared the screen. The wood sub floor under the oil supply tank was given two coats of flat black paint.

In cleaning the winker parts the spring was found to be broken. A replacement spring was found in Bruce's miscellaneous springs drawer. The gasketing on either side of the sight glass was also found to be deteriorated New gasketing was cut. The winker was reassembled.
Saturday,
September 4
Installed the steam oil tank and reconnected the supply line from the tank to the pump. Primed the steam oil pump. Placed about 2 tablespoons of Washing Soda in the water supply tank.

Fired up the car and moved it onto the dynamometer. Lashed down the rear so the car couldn't drift sideways on the rollers or jump off the rollers forward. Placed catch pans under the engine, water tank, and pump box to catch any water and/or oil that might be dropped. Ran the car both just turning the dynamometer and with the dynamometer simulating a 5% grade. The engine had no problem developing 30 horsepower at 25 MPH as indicated on the dynamometer. Condensing action was about nil. The steam supply started out at 400 PSI but dropped to 300 PSI over a five minute period. About 15 miles were run with the car on the dynamometer (dynameters indicated mileage). Most of the mileage was run with the dynamometer simply free running and offering no resistance to the car's engine. Steam supply stayed around 500 PSI with the burner cycling for light load operation.

During the testing the water supply tank ran out of water. This was first indicated by a dropping boiler water level. I disconnected the water automatic discharge line at the condenser and there was no water flow. Upon breaking the water feed line at the Y in the pump box I discovered no water being pumped even though the supply tank water level indicator indicated 1/4 full. Upon removal of the tank level indicator I found the float assembly had come apart and the float shaft was spinning on its axis making the level indicator inaccurate. Sticking the tank I found it empty. After filling the supply tank it was necessary to break the water pump supply line in order to prime the pumps. I think it will be a good idea to add a priming valve to the system as I don't think it will self-prime.

The pumps were leaking badly at the packing and several tightenings were required during the afternoon's run. Another round of packing is probably needed at this point. Once the pumps returned the boiler water to high water was discharged to the condenser indicating a full boiler condition. During the afternoon's running on the dynamometer the engine drip was opened several times to check for priming. No priming was ever observed so it appears that the water automatic is adjusted properly and positioned at the proper height.

Running on the dynamometer it was possible to observe burner operation. the burner never whistled during the afternoon's running although on one occasion it sounded like it might want to start whistling. Only once did it backfire and shutting off the main kerosene valve and opening the stack blower extinguished the flame quickly. The burner relit immediately without any additional backfires occurring.

With the dynamometer delivering some resistance to the engine it was possible to run the car hard while the main burner kerosene valve was opened to full. Operating in this state it appears not enough air is getting to the burner. The pilot flame is sucked completely out -- nothing is visible of the pilot burning in the sight window. The main burner flame is also extremely yellow in color as this yellow color is easily seen in the sight window. Closing down the main burner kerosene valve to throttle back the burner reduces the yellow color. With sufficient backing off of the main burner kerosene valve the yellow color disappears and the blue pilot flame returns to the pilot casting. It is clear that insufficient air (or too much fuel) is occurring during high combustion rates. When the burner gave signs of wanting to whistle it appeared the whistling was going to come from the main burner air-fuel mixing tube. Additionally it appears that the insulation in the valleys of the grate is insufficient. I installed it rather thin and it probably needs to be removed and repacked much tighter similar to what is packed around the pipes on the boiler. This might keep the burner grate cooler and prevent the backfiring that may occur simply because the burner castings may be too hot.

I'm also not convinced that the burner and boiler are producing sufficient steam. It seemed that the boiler pressure dropped faster than what I would have expected it to do. Only driving the car for some distance on the road will confirm this suspicion. I also believe that the slop in the valve action is making the engine less efficient. This engine doesn't seem to have the punch that Tom Marshall's Model 76 has but then again this is a heavier car than the model 76. Again some road time will provide information as actual performance. I do feel the hook-up pedal moving more than I do on the Model 76 and this could be related to improper valve adjustment as well.

Opening the steam oil separator drain only produced water and no oil. The condenser appears clean and the boiler blowdown also appeared clean. Inspection of the water supply tank at the end of the day shows it now contains cloudy water which is an indication of oil in the water supply. However none of the customary clumps of oil were observed in the tank. The steam oil separator will need to be opened to see if it is providing any oil separation. If not perhaps a finer filter material is needed.

Late in the afternoon the brass cap presently on the 1/4" pipe which will supply steam to the steam whistle had developed a steam leak. In attempting to tighten the cap the leak started to get worse so the car was disconnected from the dynamometer and returned to the garage. Blowdown of the boiler did not produce any steam oil residue and the water did not have a slimy feel indicating too much Washing Power to be present.

The repairs to the winker seem to have been successful. Initially the winker didn't wink all that positively but after a while of operation on the dynometer the winker was giving a solid winking action. With the amount of oil in the catch pans it appears that the oil delivery setting may be a bit high and could be lowered a small amount. Removal of the valve inspection port will indicate how much oil is in the engine.

During the running of the car the drip valve continuously leaked steam. This valve will need to be removed and have the valve stem and seat resurfaced. Also the engine packings are leaking somewhat and perhaps some tightening will be all that is needed. Nothing has been done to the engine packings since I took ownership of the car.

After the day's operation on the dynamometer the car is ready to have the hood installed, be tagged, and start some short distance road trials. Being able to run continuously for a number of miles on the dynamometer without any major problems indicates to me that things aren't all that bad mechanically and that I should have a reasonable level of success with short road trials to Mom & Dad's and to Tom Marshall's.

Sunday,
September 5
Worked on a bunch of odds and ends with the car. Even though the brass cap on the future whistle steam supply line was leaking yesterday and caused me to quit for the day, it was not leaking sufficiently that the car did not siphon. Replaced the brass cap with a much heavier walled cap until the steam whistle is installed.

The water level in the supply tank was 5.5" down from the top of the water level gauge stand pipe when the car was put away. The boiler siphoned the water level down to 11.25" below the top of the water level gauge stand pipe leaving about 3" of water remaining in the bottom of the tank. The water in the tank definitely shows of oil mixed in but not in the heavy blobs that appear with Tom Marshall's condensing Stanleys. It doesn't appear that the steam oil separator is working as I had hoped it might. A pH reading of the boiler water indicated a pH of 7 while the water in the supply tank indicated a pH of 6.8.

Measured with wire drills the diameter of the nozzle orifice for the main burner. It measures as a #51 drill size -- 0.067 inches in diameter.

Attempted to solder the float arm on the water level indicator so that it wouldn't rotate and provide inaccurate readings. After cleaning, glass beading, and filing to get shinny metal exposed on the steel float arm, attempts at soldering the arm to the brass clip it mounts to, were unsuccessful. The only solution will be to have the arm either TIG welded or changed to a bolted arrangement.

Installed the thermocouple cable from the pilot to the pilot temperature indicator on the dash.

Put a single round of Kevlar-graphite packing in each of the rear axle driven water pumps.

Removed the drip valve so that Tony Alvarez can resurface both the valve stem and the valve seat.
Wednesday,
September 8
After looking for hours and hours for the registration and title for the Stanley I broke down and went to Motor Vehicle and had a duplicate issued. Where the one ended up that was issued on February 10,
1998 is well beyond my guess. Now that I have the duplicate, no doubt the original will surface.
Saturday,
September 11
Dismounted the Firestone Non-Skid tire from the wire wheel to replace the tube. The tube had a hole alongside the valve stem. Installed the hood on the car. Installed the pilot fuel line needle valve stem after Tony Alvarez made a new handle the for the valve stem.

Removed the engine valve chamber inspection dome to check lubrication. Found the interior and slide valves well coated with steam oil. The slide valve seat was shinny but did have a very light film of oil on the surface and did not appear to be scraping. Reinstalled the inspection dome and drip valve. The drip valve seat and stem were refaced by Tony Alvarez.

The orifice for the main burner nozzle was drilled to a #51 drill size (0.0071 square inch area). Tom Marshall's Model 740 with the Cruban burner has a #55 drill size orifice (0.0042 square inch area) in the main burner nozzle. Tom Marshall and Frank Hix both use #60 drill size orifice holes (0.0025 square inch area; 0.0050 square inch total for two nozzles) in their Stanley burners. As I had a #55 drill size orifice nozzle from Marvin Klair I installed it to see how it affects the whistle and the occasional backfire. Tom Marshall believes this change should correct both problems or at least greatly reduce them both.

Removed the steam oil separator and opened it up for inspection. Found it to have about an inch of oil and slop in the bottom of the unit. Cleaned it in the parts cleaner and reassembled it. During the cleaning some rust and solid materials were in the glop. Where it came from is unknown but as nothing was hard there should be no concern. The condition of the filter element was excellent. It was obvious that some oil is getting through the filter screen but not a great quantity. The water in the supply tank has a slight haze to it and the discharge line from the separator had a slight steam oil coating on the interior surfaces. Removed the Stanley style drain valve as it didn't allow oil to pass through for draining. Replaced it with a small brass ball valve from Bruce's stock. Hopefully that will allow it to drain better. Reinstalled the separator.
Sunday,
September 12
There has to come a day when one flees the nest and takes to the road. With the temperatures in the upper 70's, clear blue sky, and low humidity today was to be that day. The two front doors were reattached to the car. The removable floorboards for the rear seat and floor were inserted and the car generally made ready for its first road trip. One important item I would later discover was overlooked.

The new handle on the pilot needle valve makes adjustment easy and lighting the pilot went well. Ignition of the main burner also happened without incident all though I did note that the kerosene system had lost prime which was easy to recover. With steam building the car was moved to the main garage overhead door and the water tank filled. With Bruce & Carolyn's portable phone, all my tools, and a good dose of trepidation I left for Tom Marshall's.

The travel route was south on Limestone Road and left onto Southwood Road. From there left onto Valley Road. Straight across Route 41 and onto Meeting House Road. Right onto Old Wilmington Road then left on Friends Meeting House Road. At HB DuPont school left onto Benge Road which empties out at the foot of Tom's home onto Rt 82, Creek Road. Heading down the hill on Benge road just before Tom's I noticed the fuel pressure at 80 PSI and dropping. The other problem that had affected the drive was the lack of power the steam engine had as well as not being able to keep the boiler pressure much above 350 PSI. All of these problems were not new as they showed themselves during the August 29th laps around Old Limestone Road and Limestone Road.

Upon reaching Tom's I found Jerry Lucas and his son Greg working on the 1922 Model 740. They were starting to steam the car up for a trip to Bruce's. Tom was not there as he, Bill Rule, and Gene Matlusky had taken Gene's steamer back to Gene's home. They were expected back shortly. In the interim I watched Jerry and Greg ignite the pilot, fire the main burner, and start to make steam. I decided to take care of a couple of incidental items that had appeared on the way from Bruce's to Tom's.

First was to tighten the packing nuts on the firing-up valve, steam blower, and water automatic bypass valves. All were leaking. I also checked the pumps and they didn't appear to be leaking at the packings.

I tried pumping the hand fuel/water pump only to find that I could not get the pressure on the fuel gauge to climb. The action of the pump handle also indicated that the prime had again been lost. I decided to stick the kerosene tank only to find the tank dead empty! I had put 10 gallons of kerosene in the car when I initially started to get it ready to fire up. For the dynamometer running I had added another 5 gallons. Based on my running of Tom's cars I had not expected the car to have gone through 15 gallons of kerosene. Obviously it had and perhaps one thing to throw off my "feel" for kerosene use was that such a large orifice nozzle had been in the main burner. Once Jerry had the Model 740 out of the left bay of Tom's shop garage I positioned my 735 there to fill the tank with kerosene.

While I was filling the tank with kerosene I noticed that it was red in color. I did smell it and it smelled OK so I assumed that Tom had simply gotten some of the dyed stuff. While filling the kerosene tank Tom, Bill, and Gene all returned. They were happy to see the car out for its first run. Tom also told me that the kerosene tank had been contaminated with fuel oil from the burner that heats the apartment over the shop and the shop itself. There is a transfer valve between the tank for the heater and the kerosene tank and it had been accidentally opened allowing the two fuels to mix. The 735 was about 1/2 full so I stopped filling it and we added about 2-1/2 gallons of gasoline which would match the diesel fuel -- gasoline mixture some Stanley owners prefer to use.

For the trip back to Bruce's I asked Tom if he would drive the car and render an opinion as to its operation. He accepted and Bill Rule rode in the front seat with him while I sat in the back on a milk carton (I haven't put the rear bench seat in because the seatback has no filling). Jerry and Greg Lucas followed us in the Model 740. On the way back Tom identified quite quickly that there was too much water in the boiler and some was spilling over into the dry pipe and causing a severe loss of engine power. He also identified that the two pumps were probably putting all their water into the boiler to make up for what was being lost thus making it even harder for the burner to heat the boiler sufficiently to make steam.

We left Tom's house, went up Yorklyn Road, across Rt 41 and made a left onto Valley Road. We made the right onto Southwood Road. With a good spot to pull off we blew-down the boiler to lower the water level. Upon starting out we found the engine to have plenty of power even though the steam pressure was down. Within a short distance the pumps had raised the water level sufficiently to cause the water problem to reappear. From Southwood Road we turned north onto Limestone Road and returned to Bruce's.

At Bruce's we discussed the need to lower the water automatic about 2 inches. Tom feels getting the water automatic lower and adjusted properly will solve the high water problem and help the low boiler steam pressure problem. Tom also suggested I consider making the water pumps independent such that one pump is used most of the time with the water automatic. The second pump would have its discharge line independently routed to the boiler side of the firewall and a new valve would be added on the firewall next to the existing valve for the purpose of controlling the pumping/bypass action of the second pump.

While I'm not at all pleased with myself for not checking fuel levels, I am most happy that the #55 drill size orifice nozzle on the main burner not only stopped the whistle but the backfiring as well. On the trip back there was a slight howl but that is most likely due to the kerosene -- fuel oil -- gasoline mixture the car was now burning. Jerry reported a blue cloud -- typical of the fuel oil -- gasoline mixture coming from behind the car. How much the addition of the hood over the boiler might have contributed to the cease in burner whistle I'm not sure but so long as it is gone I'm happy. Tom did comment that once I get the main burner fuel back to pure kerosene that the orifice might be increased to a #54 drill size if the burner doesn't generate sufficient heat. With the main burner kerosene valve full open I did not see any yellow flames like I had in the past and the pilot flame remained blue and burning on the casting as it should.

The water and fuel pumps did not leak at their packings which indicates progress on that front as well. While the leaking packing for the firewall valves is new, tightening and perhaps another round or two in each should correct this problem as well.

The new ball valve on the steam oil separator does allow it to drain and when opened it did let out a lot of water and heavy oil. Oil is however still getting into the water in the main water storage tank. Oil is not floating on the surface however as it typically does. With the amount of oil I'm getting I do believe the pump setting to be a little high and may need to be dropped back slightly. Too great an oil flow will might make the operation of the steam oil separator less efficient and be part of why oil is getting into the water in greater amounts than I might expect.

A good day. My confidence in the car and its reliability to go short distances was greatly improved with this trip. Its drivability and controllability were found to be good. I'm not at all happy with the fact that I didn't think to check the kerosene tank for level but one thing is for sure,
I won't forget that again in the near future. I definitely need to get the level gauges working for not only the kerosene tank but the pilot fuel tank as well. I'm going to need to document a level of steam oil in the storage tank and the mileage on the car and then after driving for a number of miles see if the oil consumption is what it ought to be. I continued to learn about Stanleys and mine in particular and even more importantly I went a short distance without blowing up, wrinkling up, or otherwise messing up the car, myself, or its passengers.

Tuesday,
September 14
The present tires on the car are 34" x 4" in size (26" wire wheels). Stanley originally shipped 35" x 4-1/2" tires which are not presently available and neither Cooker nor Universal (the two tire suppliers for antique car tires) plans on any runs in the near future. Two of the tires on the car are in excellent shape, a third in good condition, the fourth has nearly all tread worn off, and the spare is an original Firestone Non-Skid that is well worn. At least two new tires are needed for the car, the dilemma being what to do. The present tires look "small" for the car and don't provide a lot of tread area to the road. Replacements were to be available from Universal Vintage Tire at the end of August but that date has slipped to the November time frame.

A 36" x 5" polyester cord tire is also available from Universal and in stock. Tom Marshall's recommendation, which is seconded by others of the Marshall Steam Team, was to go with this size instead of the present 34" x 4" tires. So based on these strong recommendations six 36" x 5" polyester ply tires were ordered from Universal along with three more 26" x 5" rim flaps. Tube is a Michelin 2031 metal valve 880 x 120.
Saturday,
September 18
As a result of the trip to Tom Marshall's on September 12 and Tom's driving the car, the water automatic was lowered. Drained all of the water from the boiler. No oil residue was discharged with the water and the water was only slightly rusty in color. The pH is in the 6.9 range.

The boiler water level automatic was removed and completely checked out for proper valve operation. The valve ball seats completely with little pressure on the valve stem. Lowered the water automatic 1-1/2" on the side of the boiler by drilling the brackets. Set the adjustment of the automatic such that the adjusting nuts are one full turn released from being fully against the end of the thread-rod interface of each steel rod. Reinstalled the automatic and replumbed the copper lines connected to the unit.

Installed 5/16" copper tubing on the front left boiler blow-down valve and the 4" stand pipe blow-down valve and routed the tubing forward to discharge in front of the condenser. Replaced the 5/16" copper tubing on the right front boiler blow-down valve.

Drained the water supply tank and removed the three clean-out ports in the bottom of the supply tank. While the water that was discharged was cloudy there were no oil globs on the surface. The inside of the tank and the water pump intake screen had a surface oily film on them but it was not all that great. Reinstalled the repaired supply tank water level indicator. It now reads "E" when the tank is empty but only "3/4" when the tank is full of water. Filled both the boiler and supply tank with water.

Bled down the pressure on the kerosene service tanks. Drained five gallons of the kerosene-fuel oil-gasoline mixture from the rear kerosene tank and filled the tank with 15 gallons of good kerosene. Recharged the service tanks with 70-pounds of air and with the hand pump charged the system to 120 pounds of pressure.
Friday,
September 24
Arrived at Bruce's to find Dave Farmer had just arrived to inspect both Bruce's Pierce-Arrow and my Stanley. With that accomplished I went off to motor vehicle to renew the registration for the Pierce-Arrow and to get a license plate and registration for the Stanley.

Topped off the hexane tank with about two gallons. Relocated the pilot thermocouple and lit the pilot. When the main burner was lit there was a large stream of cloudy gas leaving the side of the burner facing the exhaust duct and being sucked back into the mixing tube of the main burner. After shutting down the main burner and further investigation I discovered the pitting of the burner casting had actually gone through the sidewall and the cloud I was seeing was the air-fuel mixture escaping. As a temporary fix since the casting was hot I packed some ceramic insulation and wallpaper paste into the cavity.

With steam pressure up I drove the car around "The Limestone Road Loop" several times to make sure things were operating correctly. Turns out I hit the adjustment of the water automatic perfectly. The boiler water level drops to 1/2 on the gauge. You hear the pumps start to pound as they pump against boiler pressure. The water level rises to 7/8's and the pumps stop pounding as the water automatic opens and sends water back to the supply tank.

With the car running well I put 44 miles on it (odometer now reads 50061 miles). Drove to M&P Custom Design and gave Mike DeFazio a ride. Back at the shop I gave Virgil Brown's wife a ride down Southwood Road, Valley Road, and Limestone Road back to the shop. After filling the water supply tank I headed for Mom & Dad's for dinner by going through North Star, Upper Pike Creek Road, Linden Hill Road, Skyline Drive, and Milltown Road. After dinner I headed to Marvin Klair's only to find him not home. From Marvin's I went back the way I had come but went on to Tom Marshall's. With dusk approaching I returned to the shop using the car's headlights. The car was put in the alignment pit bay for the night as it will be used on Saturday.

Definitely a great day. The car runs excellent. Now to keep it that way!
Saturday,
September 25
Tightened the engine packings and water pump packings. Checked the hexane supply and found it to be fine. The hose washer that I had installed yesterday on the fill cap had gotten soft and would no longer seat and seal the cap. Finally just put the pilot fuel tank fill cap on without any washers and it sealed perfectly. Hope that a washer is not needed going forward. Fired up without incident.

Took Dad for a quick ride down Southwood Road to Valley Road and back to the shop. The steam oil winker stopped winking on Southwood Road but then picked up on Valley road. Tightened the steam oil pump packings.

Drove to Tom Marshall's to meet up with Dave Lumley in the 735, Jerry Lucas in the 740, Bill Schoebel and Tom Cannard in the 87 and Tom and Brian Crozier in the EX. When all the cars were fired up we left for Brandywine Springs State Park where The Friends of Brandywine Springs were holding a gathering. Dave Lumley and I polished the brass cover for the condenser while folks looked at the various cars.

Drove from Brandywine Springs to Marvin Klair's. Gave Marvin a ride through Montclare, and Heritage Park to Linden Hill Road and Limestone Road and back to his place. Left Marvin's and drove back to the shop to put the car away.

Overall things went well. Put 36 additional miles on the car (odometer reads 50097 miles). This morning being cooler than yesterday afternoon the burner wanted to whistle a lot more. It also had a greater tendency to back-fire. Trying to run the car with the main burner valve partly closed in hopes that a hotter fire might be obtained. Still need to experiment with various valve settings to see what results can be obtained.
Sunday,
September 26
Longest day out with the car to date -- 51 miles (odometer reads 50148 miles). Took the car to Dave Reed's Otto Gas Engine Show off 273 in Elkton, Maryland. Trip over following Bruce in the roll-back was no problem at all. Steamer had no trouble keeping up with Bruce. All systems functioned well. Kept the main burner valve set at about the 2-o'clock position and it seemed to steam very well there.

Upon arriving I took the car back out with the water automatic bypass valve closed to fill the boiler. Late in the afternoon I was asked to give Vern and his family a ride. Found the boiler to flood because I thought the water automatic was sticking. Had to blow down the boiler several times to get back to Dave Reed's. Made some adjustments and then took Kenny Reed and Ashley for a ride only to find that the problem hadn't been cured.

Back at Dave Reed's I jacked the right rear wheel off the ground so I could run the pumps. Found no bypass water going to the condenser even though the boiler was over-full of water. Started disconnecting the tubing and found the problem not to be the water automatic but in the water automatic bypass valve. At first I thought it to be the water filter but it was clear. After about 30 minutes of troubleshooting I discovered that the problem was with the ball on the end of the water automatic bypass valve stem. The ball just slips onto the end of the valve stem. The water is supplied to the side of the valve body and is discharged at the end of the valve.

It seems the water flow pulls the ball off the end of the valve stem and plugs the port on the end of the valve thus blocking water flow. Switching the supply line to the end of the valve and the discharge to the side of the valve should correct the problem. The connection I made was identical to the way I got the car from Marvin so the problem has always been there and incorrect. The water supply should be arranged to push the ball onto the end of the valve stem instead of off of it to block the port.

After putting the ball firmly on the end of the stem and reassembling the valve body the water flow was fine. Returned the water automatic setting to one full turn on each of the setting nuts from locked against the threaded shaft.

The trip home was uneventful. Ashley rode over in the morning in the Stanley and back with me in the afternoon. The car had no problem keeping up with Bruce in the roll-back on the rural roads. Keeping the main burner valve set to about the 2-o'clock position seems to let the car fire well. The worst problem with the burner now is when stopping there seems to be a lot of raw kerosene vapor that escapes from the pilot area. A little draft on the boiler and it goes away. Something is surely not tight and I need to find out what it is. I suspect the copper washer where the main nozzle assembly is mated to the vaporizer coil but I'll need to investigate further. Definitely need to solve this problem as the smell is as bad as the "smoke" that filters out of the hood louvers when sitting at a traffic light.

The car was returned to its usual garage position. As the sun had set behind the trees I used the digital camera to photograph the car. In parking the car one of the glue seams on the wooden steering wheel began to separate. The seam will need to be reglued this week.

With the addition of 131 miles on the car this weekend it seems to be running quite well. There are six things that need to be addressed next weekend. The parking brake needs to be adjusted. The brake shoes for the foot brake need adjustment. The throttle lever wants to drift closed and needs to be tightened. The water automatic bypass valve needs to be replumbed so the ball on the end of the stem is always being pushed onto the stem. The wooden steering wheel will need the seam that separated reglued. And finally the "smoke cloud" that comes from under the hood when sitting still with the main burner at full fire will need to be investigated and corrected. When all these items are attended to it won't hurt to check the engine packings and to see if the pilot thermocouple can be positioned a bit better.

I'd have to say that the car is running as well as any of Tom Marshall's cars and perhaps a lot better than I had expected it to at this point. It definitely meets my expectations for speed and comfort of ride.

Saturday,
October 2
A day of taking care of the little things that cropped up during last weekend's three days of driving. The steering wheel was reglued with white carpenter's glue. A 12-volt indicator lamp was installed in the turn signals. The slack adjusters for both rear wheels of the hydraulic foot brakes were adjusted to take care of the initial wear and settling in of the brake shoes and linings.

The hand brake was adjusted by taking up on the rod between the hand brake lever-arm and the cross rod. Additional slack was removed by tightening the adjusting screws on both brake bands. The hand brake lever does not pull back as far as it once did but as all the adjustment in the linkage is fully taken up, the next adjustment will require the brakes to be relined.

The boiler water level automatic bypass valve was replumbed so that the end port of the valve housing is piped to the main pump check valve while the side port is piped to the end port of the water automatic. This should eliminate any future problems with the ball saying seated on the valve body's end port by pressure while the stem backs out of the ball when the valve handle is rotated.

With 87 miles driven the steam oil tank level had dropped one inch. This drop corresponds to 51 ounces of steam oil being pumped to lubricate the engine. Tom Marshall indicates that Stanley recommended the steam oil use should be 32 ounces (one quart) per one hundred miles driven. Based on the numbers I've obtained my oil use will be around 36 ounces per 100 driven miles or 13% high. I will back off slightly on the oil pump settings in order to reduce the oil consumption closer to what the guideline calls for.

The car was filed with kerosene (about 7 gallons) and with hexane. Before firing up for Sunday's trip with Tom Marshall and some of his steamers the throttle will need tightening along with the engine packings and perhaps I can set the pilot thermocouple in a better location.
Sunday,
October 3
Today was Tom Marshall's Fall Steam Car Mini-tour. Completed the last couple of items needing attention on the car. Tightened both water pump packings, fuel pump packing, steam oil pump packing, and the engine packings. Replaced the setscrew with a bolt to clamp the main burner nozzle to its adapter. The bolt had to be ground shorter in length as well as the head needed to be thinner. Turns out this solved the leaking kerosene vapor problem around the pilot area. Replaced the plastic snubber on the throttle with a longer piece to hold the throttle in place when riding.

Greg Lucas arrived shortly before noon and I had him fire up the car with my assistance. We left for Tom's to join the rest of the Steam Team. Tom Marshall and Brian Crozier were driving the 1914 Model 607; Bill Schoebel and Tom Cannard were in the 1912 Model 87; the Lucas family were in the 1922 Model 740; the Lumley family were in the 1918 Model 735; and Alan Berry and Bill Rule were driving the 1932 Packard.

Our tour covered parts of New Garden, London-Brittain, Franklin, New London, London Grove, and West Grove counties in Pennsylvania. The tour route was 42 miles. The only car experiencing any real problems was the 740 and that was burner related. A Cruban burner like my car, I believe it needs to be taken down and thoroughly checked out.

When we got back I diverted with Greg to the shop to give Virgil Brown a ride. That ride was down Limestone to Brackenville Road to Mill Creek Road and back to the shop via Southwood Road. We then left for Tom Marshall's. Upon arriving the 607, 87, and Packard had returned. While I was getting another 5 gallons of hexane the 735 and 740 returned. Leaving Greg with his family I left Tom's to pick up Mom & Dad at their home and take them to Bruce & Carolyn's for dinner for Mom's Birthday. The trip was via Heritage Park, Linden Hill Road, Upper Pike Creek Road, North Star Road, Valley Road, and Southwood Road.

Back at the shop the car was put away in normal fashion. 70 miles (odometer reads 50218) had been put on the car during the day. The car performed flawlessly and I'm at a loss to list anything that has to have immediate attention. The Marshall Steam Team was impressed with the car's performance as was I.
Sunday,
October 10
With the car running real well last Sunday there wasn't anything urgent that needed attention. As the windshield panels would not rotate on their pivot bolts the pivots were well lubricated with JB-80. Both windshield panels loosened up very well and are now easy to position and lock in place with their turn-screws.

Based on the amount of crud that Jerry Lucas removed from the Cruban burner on Tom Marshall's Model 740 and considering the mixture of fuels that have been running in my car I decided a thorough checking of the burner and pilot might be prudent. Upon removing the main burner nozzle I found it clear but the lower end did contain some sort of oily material.

Disassembled and cleaned the nozzle and it parts. As the nozzle is now a #55 drill size and the screw-in nozzle orifice cleaner point was made for the #51 drill size nozzle I started out with, I had to file the point smaller so it would clean the #55 nozzle. Bruce had some fine screen that I put inside the nozzle filter stem which makes it identical to the one in Tom's Model 740. Removed the filter stem cap bolt so it would be easier to loosen when using the steam enema to clean the vaporizer coil and filter of crud. Need to start using the steam enema every 100 miles or so.

Pulled the wire from the vaporizer and found it very clean without any crud on it. Ran it in the nozzle end and then blew air through the vaporizer coil to make sure it was clean. Nothing loose was blown free.

Removed the pilot assembly and found it doesn't seem to be suffering any ill effects from use. With the pilot removed, inspection of the underside of the boiler was possible. The boiler, vaporizer coil, and superheater coil all appear to be fine and only coated with a fine reddish rust. There doesn't appear to be any carbon build-up on any surfaces which indicates the #55 main burner nozzle to be a good size. Repositioned the thermocouple behind the pilot nozzle vaporizing tube when the pilot was replaced in the burner so hopefully this new location will make it perform more accurately. Reassembled the main burner nozzle. The burner appears to be functioning satisfactory and everything appears to be in proper order. It is becoming obvious though that I'm going to need to start thinking about fabricating a couple of new main burner nozzle assemblies in the near future as mine are not in good condition.
Saturday,
October 16
This weekend was Tom Marshall's final open house weekend for 1999. Fueled the Stanley with kerosene and hexane. Fired up the car and drove it to Tom's. It was such a beautiful day (68F, no clouds) that I decided to go on past Tom's and take a little ride. Leaves on the trees are just starting to show some color. Upon reaching Tom's the Stanley was parked in front of the museum. Odometer upon returning to Bruce's now reads 50238.

While the open house progressed I watched the car and noted that the boiler water level was dropping slowly. After about three hours the level had dropped from nearly at the high mark on the indicator to one mark above low on the indicator. I decided to fire up the car (it had dropped to about 300 PSI steam pressure) and take it on a short drive to pump water into the boiler. For the drive I closed the water automatic bypass to insure all pumped water would go into the boiler.

Upon leaving I did not hear the familiar clunking sound of the pumps operating. There was a pumping sound but it was not to the volume I had expected. Upon returning to Tom's I thought the pump packings might be leaking even though I couldn't see any water trails behind the car. I checked the pump packings and while they each took two flats tightening they didn't appear to be leaking that bad. I went out again for a short ride and was able to get the boiler water level up to the high mark.

I opened the water automatic bypass valve and continued driving. When the boiler water level had dropped to mid-gauge the pumps started pumping and had their familiar pounding sound. The water level returned to high on the gauge at a rate I've grown more accustomed to seeing. After that the water automatic and pumps maintained the boiler water level as I've grown accustomed to observing.

My belief is that the boiler water check valve at the firewall is not holding completely and is allowing water to run back into the water tank. The boiler check at the inlet to the boiler had the stem raised so that it would not act as a check valve. When returning to Tom's once I was assured the pumps were operating properly I lowered the stem putting the check into operation.

The water check on the firewall should keep boiler water and steam from getting back to the pumps. This is obviously not happening. The steam filled the water supply piping since the water leaking past the check valve was no longer under pressure and hence immediately flashed to steam. Additionally, once sufficient water from the boiler had leaked back the end of the water inlet stand pipe was exposed to steam. The steam cleared the pump discharge lines of water but with sufficient back pressure such that the pumps would not prime. The steam is compressible and thus let the pumps stay "air bound" with steam. With the water automatic bypass valve closed the pumps could not clear out steam and they would not prime. They only pumped at a portion of their capacity. Once I was able to get the boiler full enough with water to open the water automatic bypass all pressure restriction on the discharge side of the pumps was removed and they easily primed. Once primed they worked properly after that.

I believe that one of the things needed on the car in a dash mounted valve that when open directs water from the discharge lines of the pumps back to the water tank. This valve and line would provide a means for the pumps to pump water with no back pressure and thus insure that they prime. Once primed, closing the "priming valve" would allow normal pump and steam automatic operation to occur. This valve would also come in handy should the main water supply tank be drained during driving and the necessity to reprime the pumps exist.

At the end of Tom's open house I returned to Bruce's and put the car away in the normal manner. However, with Sunday being another open house day I decided to park the Stanley in the alignment pit bay of the shop so that it would be easy to get going in the morning. However, upon finding out that hurricane Irene was coming faster than originally expected and that there was a 60% chance of rain on Sunday, I moved the car back to its regular parking location. The car had 300 PSI of steam pressure when I started the move but was at 0 PSI when I finally parked it. It will be interesting to see how much water the boiler siphons. It may be necessary to fill the boiler with water by hose on Sunday should I decide to take the car.

Sunday,
October 17
As a result of yesterday's run and in preparation for today's run several routing maintenance items were attended to. Even though the boiler pressure had dropped to 0 PSI after moving the car yesterday the boiler still siphoned full of water. Tightened the 1/8" x 2" nipple between the vaporizer enema steam valve and the water siphon steam valve.

As I used the steam enema yesterday I decided to pull the vaporizer cable fitting and make sure the steam blast had not moved the cable in the vaporizer. The cable had not moved which means that it will probably stay in place when using the steam enema. I did note a lot of kerosene and water on the cable as I pulled it from the vaporizer.

When lighting the pilot yesterday a yellow flame was observed coming from the front of the pilot. Suspecting one of the cleaning port bolts to be loose the pilot was removed. Each of the cleaning port bolts for the vaporizer required about one flat of tightening. Reinstalled the pilot.

At the end of the day yesterday it was noted that kerosene vapors were drifting out of the pilot area when the car was not in motion indicating that perhaps the main burner nozzle might not be tight in its mounting block. About a flat was taken up on the retaining bolt.

With rain already in Sussex County I decided not to take the car to Tom Marshall's open house. Turned out this was a good decision because about 4 PM it started to rain as expected.

I discussed with Tom the problem of the boiler check leaking and he concurred that such a problem would cause the pumps to not prime. He thought the idea of adding a firewall valve so that the pumps could be easily primed was something that Stanley should have provided. I should have a second Stanley valve from Marvin Klair that is typical of those installed through a firewall which includes the mounting screw ears. It may not have the proper stem assembly but perhaps something in Tom's collection of parts might suffice. If space can be found for a proper installation this valve might work for this application.
Saturday,
October 23
Today was Red Clay Valley Days which was a joint effort by the Wilmington & Western Railroad -- Historic Red Clay Valley, Inc., Greenbank Mill Associates, Inc., and Friends of Brandywine Springs to put their efforts on display as well as to raise funds after hurricane Floyd. Joined Tom Marshall with the 1915 Mountain Wagon, Bill Schwoebel and Tom Cannard with the 1913 Model 87, and Jerry Lucas with the 1922 Model 740 for a trip to Greenbank Station. As Route 82 is closed at Ashland because of the hurricane damage we took Wilmington Road to Brackenville Road to Barley Mill Road to Centerville Road to Greenbank Road to get to Greenbank Station.

My car ran fine but by the time I had reached Greenbank Station the new copper washer on the main burner nozzle had relaxed slightly and kerosene was wisping up from the side of the boiler. The tightening of all the pilot bolts definitely made for a better pilot flame. The car sat at Greenbank Station for about 4 hours and the boiler water never dropped like it had done the previous week at Tom Marshall's open house.

Perhaps the worst event of the day for me was that I stopped on the grass between the old Yorklyn Station and the new station to drop the access chain so we could park between the new station and the railroad tracks. The ground was softer there than I expected and when I tried to move forward up the hill the car shook and rattled as if gears were grinding up in the rear. I closed the throttle really thinking that the pump drive had gone south but then dismissed that since it was fine when I stopped. I put the hook-up pedal to the floor and applied steam. Got the same noise and vibrations for about 2 feet of travel and then things smoothed out. Backing out of there I discovered that I had dug a rut with the right rear tire -- the bald one -- about 4" deep in the soft dirt. I released the hook-up pedal and applied steam to run up the slight grade. Made it without any noise and without any wheel slippage. After parking the car I found out from Tom Cannard that the rear wheel was spinning when I attempted to go forward. The vibration and noise was obviously the rear springs and perch poles reacting to the spinning right rear wheel. Considering the condition of the poles it is a good thing that I didn't break one which is easy to do. Spinning wheels in mud is also a good way to bend engine rods and cranks similar to slipping a steam locomotive on wet rails. Don't need to go there for sure!

Jerry Lucas definitely had better luck with the Model 740 once he had cleaned the Cruban vaporizer and pilot at the past week's work session. He was able to keep up with my car without any problem. On the return trip he noted that he had little trouble maintaining speed with me and in fact he caught up with me on several occasions. On the trip back he had the lights operating which was different. I'm not used to being with any of Tom's cars and having the headlights lit. The battery on the Model 740 is shot so at slow speed the lights were dim but as Jerry picked up speed they got good and bright. In fact I need to get 50 candle-power lamps for my car as I only have 32 candle-power lamps installed right now.

We left Greenbank Station and headed up Rt 41 to Brandywine Springs. Not much activity there so after about 15 minutes we all left to return to Tom's. Tom took a more direct route back while Jerry, Bill, Tom, and I took a much more scenic route with me leading. We left Brandywine Springs and took Faulkland Road to Centerville Road and followed that all the way north to Rt 82. I can't pass up an opportunity to drive across the causeway at the reservoir in the fall and look out across the water to see the hues of color being reflected. From Rt 82 we took Hillside Mill Road past Mt Cuba Observatory, then Mt Cuba Road to Barley Mill Road to Brackenville Road, to Old Wilmington Road, to Friends Meeting House Road to Auburn Mill Road and back to Tom's.

I left Tom's to return to Bruce's shop and to put the car away. As the mud on the road in from of Tom's home from the road construction and the spinning wheels incident at Greenbank Station had muddied the fenders I hosed the worst off. I now definitely need to take a pail of warm water and a rag to the undersides of the car and clean it properly. Things are a mess on the underside.

In getting ready to blow down I found the pilot weak, very irregular, and noisy. Thinking it was a clog in the pilot nozzle I cut off the fuel supply and ran the wire in. Upon relighting the pilot it burned with its normal brilliance and vigor. First time I've needed to clean the pilot. Perhaps the tightening session last weekend knocked some crud loose. The mileage now stands at 50,272 adding another 34 miles today.

Sunday,
October 31
The end of Daylight Savings Time which means less time to drive. Even though the day started out with murky fog it cleared nicely by about 11AM. While I debated taking the car out for a drive, the need to take Ashley & Casey to their soccer game and pick up Jennifer provided the excuse I needed to get the car fired up.

Added about 8 gallons of kerosene and checked the pilot fuel. As the steam oil tank was down to less than 2" of oil, I filled the tank with oil that I had purchased from Tom Marshall in September. Considering that I had the steam oil pump set to 5/8" stroke and that the Stanley documentation indicates something closer to 1/4" is adequate I reduced the stroke of the steam oil pump. The stroke is now 1/2" (1-1/4" to 1-3/4"). For this adjustment there was 6" of steam oil in the tank and 50272 miles on the odometer. Tightened the packing nuts for the throttle and the main burner dash kerosene valve.

Fired up the car and took Ashley to Lantana Square by way of Southwood Road and Valley Road to pick up subs for dinner. As it was a short time before I had to take Ashley and Casey to their game I took Kaolin Road to Ewart Road to Benge Road to Friends Meeting House Road. At the intersection of Friends and Old Wilmington I met Alan Berry who followed me back to the shop. He joined for the ride taking Ashley and Casey to Unionville Middle & Senior High School for their soccer games. We took Kaolin Road to Rt 82 to get to the school. Dropping them off we picked up Jennifer and headed home. We stopped at John Beard's home just north of Kennett Square to pick up some underground telephone wire for Bruce. Dropping Jennifer off at the house Alan and I headed out for another short tour.

We took Limestone Road to Brackenville Road to Rt 82 at Ashland. Following Rt 82 we crossed the causeway at Hoopes Reservoir which had lost a lot of its autumnal beauty from last week. Turning onto Centerville Road we followed it to Barley Mill Road where we again reached Rt 82 at Ashland. As Rt 82 is blocked just beyond the railroad 'S' trestle we took Sharpless Road to Old Wilmington Road. Following Old Wilmington Road to Kaolin Road we returned to the shop just as the sun was dropping behind the trees. I drove the car another 45 miles (odometer reads 50317) today.

The lower stroke setting of the winker seemed to make it wink better as the glass didn't turn solid brown as easily. This may also be some of Tom's oil starting to work into the system as well. While the winker works well at slow speed when the car is first driven, after about the first mile it stop winking unless one drives real slow. At the 3 to 4 mile point it starts winking well again and continues to wink well for the rest of the drive. I'm not sure if this is the oil heating up and flowing better or what the cause might be. Something to be investigated.

The car continues to steam well and run well. Engine packings want to leak and this winter getting them replaced at the same time the valve work is done should solve this problem. The water automatic and steam automatic worked well. The sight-glass on the pilot access door did not cover over with soot and at the end of the run the pilot continued to burn well. With no soot present on the smoke box access cover it indicates the burner is probably operating at optimum firing rate. The car sure doesn't seem to have any problem making steam.

Upon returning to the shop and filling the water tank prior to putting the car away I pulled the water tank level indicator out only to find it covered with oil. I cleaned it and decided that it might be a good idea to pull one of the water tank clean-outs and drain the tank to see what kind of oil might be present. I removed the center plug and found the water pump intake screen covered with steam oil. Remarkably there was hardly any oil that came out of the tank as it drained. It all seemed to be on either the water indicator float or the pump suction line screen. The cleaned screen and plug was reinstalled. I don't know how much oil is sticking to the sides of the tank but I don't believe it to be much. The boiler blow-down did not discharge any oil which seems to indicate little oil is being returned to the boiler.

While under the car I noted the right perch-pole to be covered with oil. This appears to be originating at the front end cap of the boiler feed water heater. The pole will need to be cleaned and the cap tightened if possible. No other maintenance items were noted.

 

1998 ~ Mechanical Restoration Started
1999A ~ Mechanical Restoration Completed
1999B ~ Test Drives and Tours
2000 ~ Body Paint Stripping
2001 ~ Body Restoration
2002 ~ Body Restoration
2003 ~ Final Painting and Reassembly
2004 ~ Reassembly
2005 ~ Interior and Top Restoration
2006 ~ Finishing Up The Loose Ends

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