The main burner valve was opened fully when the steam pressure reached 100 PSI. Looking through some of the small holes around the blow-off pipes at the bottom of the boiler revealed an excellent fire. Peering down through the flues showed the fire to be mostly blue and burning all over the grate. When the steam pressure reached 475 PSI the steam automatic shut-off the kerosene supply to the main burner. This is 100 PSI lower than the automatic should close however after the rebuild of the steam automatic I left it set low.

The throttle was opened and the steam engine sprang to life. The right rear wheel started to rotate and the pumps started operation. The overall sound of the engine is good; there doesn't seem to be any knocking or similar odd noises coming from it.

The main fuel system's kerosene pump raised the main fuel system pressure to 140 PSI operating pressure and the relief valve operated to maintain this pressure as designed. The winker also was blinking indicating that oil was being sent into the steam line and back to the engine for cylinder lubrication. The water pumps appeared to be operating however with high water in the boiler and the water automatic cool there should have been water exiting the water automatic discharge. Some adjustment of the valve's setting produced the needed water from the valve indicating the boiler was full and the pumped water should recirculate back to the water tank.

Throughout about two hours of operation the main burner was lit and operated about a half dozen times. The fuel automatic operated at 450 to 475 PSI without any leaks. Steam exited the heat exchanger along with a load of hot water on several occasions. When the throttle was closed a load of water issued from the bottom of the engine. I suspect this is from the condensing of steam within the boiler feed water heater. The throttle closes down completely and there is no steam leakage. Several boiler flues leaked intermittently but sealed themselves. One flue, next to the double-valve for the siphon and enema seems to be leaking at the burner end of the boiler. A hiss is discernible coming from inside the tube but no steam seems to be escaping.

It has been 7 years since Marvin Klair last had steam on this car (1992). There's still a long way to go before it can make its first road trip and I confident that I'll be able to drive it back home. It has been 21 months since I purchased the car and 19 since I started restoring it. It has at times been frustrating and disappointing. It has been a great learning experience. It has also been fun and in its own way relaxing. It certainly has been perhaps the most expensive thing that I've ever done outside of buying the townhouse or a new car.

If all goes well trial drives should be in progress around Labor Day. With the Mt. Washington steam car tour only two weeks away and much to do on Tom's Model 76 if it is to be ready for me to drive in that tour, not much will happen with my Stanley till after the middle of August. At least I'll be able to say during the tour that things are progressing very well, and most importantly that the car seems to steam well.

I also think it is time to complete insulating the smoke box and get it attached to the top of the boiler. Having the stack blower should go a long way to helping the back-firing problem and being able to cool the main burner mixing tube will also be an advantage. Likewise the generator needs to be reinstalled with its shorter shafts and modified coupling. A battery can be installed and we can see if the electrical system is operating properly.

With the main lubricating pump stroke increased better oiling was evident in the cylinder drip valve. The run wasn't long enough to be able to determine if the setting is too great -- I suspect that it is. Engine packings are now blowing and will also need some attention. The new hydraulic brakes seem responsive and will easily lock the rear wheels. Steering is stiffer than I had hoped and there seems to be some binding in the steering column at the steering wheel. There seemed to be a lot of water in the pump box which indicates the main pump packings need some additional tightening as well.

All considered it was a good day. It would have been nice to have been able to run the car more but the burner leak ended that desire. Had the burner not acted up I was prepared to take a quick ride around the block and see how things did at speed. Then a few passenger rides might have occurred. With the back-firing of the burner and things much too hot to handle to effect repairs the day of riding was cut short. I'm sure Dad, Bruce, and the kids would have liked a ride but it was not to be. In the short ride I did have in the car I found it to be well powered -- almost acting like Tom Marshall's Model 76. Riding around the field the ride was not all that bad considering the roughness of the field.

Passenger rides will have to wait until after the steam tour at Mt. Washington/Gorham that starts on 8/6/99 and runs through 8/15/99. When I return I'll drop the burner to inspect how it is holding up after three firings. That will also give me the opportunity to see what is leaking on the one flue and make a proper repair to that. I'll also have the opportunity to study the burner and see what is leaking. No doubt a number of the pilot fittings will need a few flats of tightening.

Installed the cable between the speedometer and the wheel drive. The speedometer seems to work well but does stick on occasion and not return to zero. A gently tap drops the dial back to zero. Perhaps a little use will remedy this problem.

The generator starts supplying power at about 30 MPH to start charging the battery. At about 10 MPH it drops back off line. It has the capacity to run the headlights (both) and directional signal which will be good.

Made numerous laps around around the shop using Limestone Road and Old Limestone Road totaling 7 miles. The water automatic seems to be mounted too high as the boiler water level indicator shows full all the time and the operation of the engine sounds wet. Tried making adjustments but that didn't seem to get it to work. It almost appears that the valve is not closing tightly. Perhaps the main problem is not enough drop to it. I'm also now convinced that it is mounted to high and needs to be an inch lower as well as on more of an angle.

Boiler steam leaks were not present. The minute steam leaks appear to have rusted shut. There was some water vapor when the pilot was initially lit indicating perhaps some leaks present but by the end of the day things seemed quiet. At the end of the day the pressure relief valve was whisping a small amount. This is a first for this valve. Hopefully it won't inhibit siphoning from occurring.

All in all a good day. Burner whistle needs correction and I need to address the backfiring problem. An improvement in the pilot system pressure is warranted to keep the pilot flame burning more evenly throughout the day. The water automatic will need further attention as well. Lubricating oil dripped from the drip valve but none seemed to get to the condenser or the water tank and the blow-down was clean. Another inspection of the steam chest is warranted.

It was nice to take her to the road. Knowing the generator and speedometer are operational is also good. Bruce was surprised that I took to the road with it. There are problems yet to be ironed out but all in all it is operating like a classic Stanley

Running on the dynamometer it was possible to observe burner operation. the burner never whistled during the afternoon's running although on one occasion it sounded like it might want to start whistling. Only once did it backfire and shutting off the main kerosene valve and opening the stack blower extinguished the flame quickly. The burner relit immediately without any additional backfires occurring.

With the dynamometer delivering some resistance to the engine it was possible to run the car hard while the main burner kerosene valve was opened to full. Operating in this state it appears not enough air is getting to the burner. The pilot flame is sucked completely out -- nothing is visible of the pilot burning in the sight window. The main burner flame is also extremely yellow in color as this yellow color is easily seen in the sight window. Closing down the main burner kerosene valve to throttle back the burner reduces the yellow color. With sufficient backing off of the main burner kerosene valve the yellow color disappears and the blue pilot flame returns to the pilot casting. It is clear that insufficient air (or too much fuel) is occurring during high combustion rates. When the burner gave signs of wanting to whistle it appeared the whistling was going to come from the main burner air-fuel mixing tube. Additionally it appears that the insulation in the valleys of the grate is insufficient. I installed it rather thin and it probably needs to be removed and repacked much tighter similar to what is packed around the pipes on the boiler. This might keep the burner grate cooler and prevent the backfiring that may occur simply because the burner castings may be too hot.

I'm also not convinced that the burner and boiler are producing sufficient steam. It seemed that the boiler pressure dropped faster than what I would have expected it to do. Only driving the car for some distance on the road will confirm this suspicion. I also believe that the slop in the valve action is making the engine less efficient. This engine doesn't seem to have the punch that Tom Marshall's Model 76 has but then again this is a heavier car than the model 76. Again some road time will provide information as actual performance. I do feel the hook-up pedal moving more than I do on the Model 76 and this could be related to improper valve adjustment as well.

Opening the steam oil separator drain only produced water and no oil. The condenser appears clean and the boiler blowdown also appeared clean. Inspection of the water supply tank at the end of the day shows it now contains cloudy water which is an indication of oil in the water supply. However none of the customary clumps of oil were observed in the tank. The steam oil separator will need to be opened to see if it is providing any oil separation. If not perhaps a finer filter material is needed.

Late in the afternoon the brass cap presently on the 1/4" pipe which will supply steam to the steam whistle had developed a steam leak. In attempting to tighten the cap the leak started to get worse so the car was disconnected from the dynamometer and returned to the garage. Blowdown of the boiler did not produce any steam oil residue and the water did not have a slimy feel indicating too much Washing Power to be present.

The repairs to the winker seem to have been successful. Initially the winker didn't wink all that positively but after a while of operation on the dynometer the winker was giving a solid winking action. With the amount of oil in the catch pans it appears that the oil delivery setting may be a bit high and could be lowered a small amount. Removal of the valve inspection port will indicate how much oil is in the engine.

During the running of the car the drip valve continuously leaked steam. This valve will need to be removed and have the valve stem and seat resurfaced. Also the engine packings are leaking somewhat and perhaps some tightening will be all that is needed. Nothing has been done to the engine packings since I took ownership of the car.

After the day's operation on the dynamometer the car is ready to have the hood installed, be tagged, and start some short distance road trials. Being able to run continuously for a number of miles on the dynamometer without any major problems indicates to me that things aren't all that bad mechanically and that I should have a reasonable level of success with short road trials to Mom & Dad's and to Tom Marshall's.

I tried pumping the hand fuel/water pump only to find that I could not get the pressure on the fuel gauge to climb. The action of the pump handle also indicated that the prime had again been lost. I decided to stick the kerosene tank only to find the tank dead empty! I had put 10 gallons of kerosene in the car when I initially started to get it ready to fire up. For the dynamometer running I had added another 5 gallons. Based on my running of Tom's cars I had not expected the car to have gone through 15 gallons of kerosene. Obviously it had and perhaps one thing to throw off my "feel" for kerosene use was that such a large orifice nozzle had been in the main burner. Once Jerry had the Model 740 out of the left bay of Tom's shop garage I positioned my 735 there to fill the tank with kerosene.

While I was filling the tank with kerosene I noticed that it was red in color. I did smell it and it smelled OK so I assumed that Tom had simply gotten some of the dyed stuff. While filling the kerosene tank Tom, Bill, and Gene all returned. They were happy to see the car out for its first run. Tom also told me that the kerosene tank had been contaminated with fuel oil from the burner that heats the apartment over the shop and the shop itself. There is a transfer valve between the tank for the heater and the kerosene tank and it had been accidentally opened allowing the two fuels to mix. The 735 was about 1/2 full so I stopped filling it and we added about 2-1/2 gallons of gasoline which would match the diesel fuel -- gasoline mixture some Stanley owners prefer to use.

For the trip back to Bruce's I asked Tom if he would drive the car and render an opinion as to its operation. He accepted and Bill Rule rode in the front seat with him while I sat in the back on a milk carton (I haven't put the rear bench seat in because the seatback has no filling). Jerry and Greg Lucas followed us in the Model 740. On the way back Tom identified quite quickly that there was too much water in the boiler and some was spilling over into the dry pipe and causing a severe loss of engine power. He also identified that the two pumps were probably putting all their water into the boiler to make up for what was being lost thus making it even harder for the burner to heat the boiler sufficiently to make steam.

We left Tom's house, went up Yorklyn Road, across Rt 41 and made a left onto Valley Road. We made the right onto Southwood Road. With a good spot to pull off we blew-down the boiler to lower the water level. Upon starting out we found the engine to have plenty of power even though the steam pressure was down. Within a short distance the pumps had raised the water level sufficiently to cause the water problem to reappear. From Southwood Road we turned north onto Limestone Road and returned to Bruce's.

At Bruce's we discussed the need to lower the water automatic about 2 inches. Tom feels getting the water automatic lower and adjusted properly will solve the high water problem and help the low boiler steam pressure problem. Tom also suggested I consider making the water pumps independent such that one pump is used most of the time with the water automatic. The second pump would have its discharge line independently routed to the boiler side of the firewall and a new valve would be added on the firewall next to the existing valve for the purpose of controlling the pumping/bypass action of the second pump.

While I'm not at all pleased with myself for not checking fuel levels, I am most happy that the #55 drill size orifice nozzle on the main burner not only stopped the whistle but the backfiring as well. On the trip back there was a slight howl but that is most likely due to the kerosene -- fuel oil -- gasoline mixture the car was now burning. Jerry reported a blue cloud -- typical of the fuel oil -- gasoline mixture coming from behind the car. How much the addition of the hood over the boiler might have contributed to the cease in burner whistle I'm not sure but so long as it is gone I'm happy. Tom did comment that once I get the main burner fuel back to pure kerosene that the orifice might be increased to a #54 drill size if the burner doesn't generate sufficient heat. With the main burner kerosene valve full open I did not see any yellow flames like I had in the past and the pilot flame remained blue and burning on the casting as it should.

The water and fuel pumps did not leak at their packings which indicates progress on that front as well. While the leaking packing for the firewall valves is new, tightening and perhaps another round or two in each should correct this problem as well.

The new ball valve on the steam oil separator does allow it to drain and when opened it did let out a lot of water and heavy oil. Oil is however still getting into the water in the main water storage tank. Oil is not floating on the surface however as it typically does. With the amount of oil I'm getting I do believe the pump setting to be a little high and may need to be dropped back slightly. Too great an oil flow will might make the operation of the steam oil separator less efficient and be part of why oil is getting into the water in greater amounts than I might expect.

A good day. My confidence in the car and its reliability to go short distances was greatly improved with this trip. Its drivability and controllability were found to be good. I'm not at all happy with the fact that I didn't think to check the kerosene tank for level but one thing is for sure,
I won't forget that again in the near future. I definitely need to get the level gauges working for not only the kerosene tank but the pilot fuel tank as well. I'm going to need to document a level of steam oil in the storage tank and the mileage on the car and then after driving for a number of miles see if the oil consumption is what it ought to be. I continued to learn about Stanleys and mine in particular and even more importantly I went a short distance without blowing up, wrinkling up, or otherwise messing up the car, myself, or its passengers.

The trip home was uneventful. Ashley rode over in the morning in the Stanley and back with me in the afternoon. The car had no problem keeping up with Bruce in the roll-back on the rural roads. Keeping the main burner valve set to about the 2-o'clock position seems to let the car fire well. The worst problem with the burner now is when stopping there seems to be a lot of raw kerosene vapor that escapes from the pilot area. A little draft on the boiler and it goes away. Something is surely not tight and I need to find out what it is. I suspect the copper washer where the main nozzle assembly is mated to the vaporizer coil but I'll need to investigate further. Definitely need to solve this problem as the smell is as bad as the "smoke" that filters out of the hood louvers when sitting at a traffic light.

The car was returned to its usual garage position. As the sun had set behind the trees I used the digital camera to photograph the car. In parking the car one of the glue seams on the wooden steering wheel began to separate. The seam will need to be reglued this week.

With the addition of 131 miles on the car this weekend it seems to be running quite well. There are six things that need to be addressed next weekend. The parking brake needs to be adjusted. The brake shoes for the foot brake need adjustment. The throttle lever wants to drift closed and needs to be tightened. The water automatic bypass valve needs to be replumbed so the ball on the end of the stem is always being pushed onto the stem. The wooden steering wheel will need the seam that separated reglued. And finally the "smoke cloud" that comes from under the hood when sitting still with the main burner at full fire will need to be investigated and corrected. When all these items are attended to it won't hurt to check the engine packings and to see if the pilot thermocouple can be positioned a bit better.

I'd have to say that the car is running as well as any of Tom Marshall's cars and perhaps a lot better than I had expected it to at this point. It definitely meets my expectations for speed and comfort of ride.

The water check on the firewall should keep boiler water and steam from getting back to the pumps. This is obviously not happening. The steam filled the water supply piping since the water leaking past the check valve was no longer under pressure and hence immediately flashed to steam. Additionally, once sufficient water from the boiler had leaked back the end of the water inlet stand pipe was exposed to steam. The steam cleared the pump discharge lines of water but with sufficient back pressure such that the pumps would not prime. The steam is compressible and thus let the pumps stay "air bound" with steam. With the water automatic bypass valve closed the pumps could not clear out steam and they would not prime. They only pumped at a portion of their capacity. Once I was able to get the boiler full enough with water to open the water automatic bypass all pressure restriction on the discharge side of the pumps was removed and they easily primed. Once primed they worked properly after that.

I believe that one of the things needed on the car in a dash mounted valve that when open directs water from the discharge lines of the pumps back to the water tank. This valve and line would provide a means for the pumps to pump water with no back pressure and thus insure that they prime. Once primed, closing the "priming valve" would allow normal pump and steam automatic operation to occur. This valve would also come in handy should the main water supply tank be drained during driving and the necessity to reprime the pumps exist.

At the end of Tom's open house I returned to Bruce's and put the car away in the normal manner. However, with Sunday being another open house day I decided to park the Stanley in the alignment pit bay of the shop so that it would be easy to get going in the morning. However, upon finding out that hurricane Irene was coming faster than originally expected and that there was a 60% chance of rain on Sunday, I moved the car back to its regular parking location. The car had 300 PSI of steam pressure when I started the move but was at 0 PSI when I finally parked it. It will be interesting to see how much water the boiler siphons. It may be necessary to fill the boiler with water by hose on Sunday should I decide to take the car.

Jerry Lucas definitely had better luck with the Model 740 once he had cleaned the Cruban vaporizer and pilot at the past week's work session. He was able to keep up with my car without any problem. On the return trip he noted that he had little trouble maintaining speed with me and in fact he caught up with me on several occasions. On the trip back he had the lights operating which was different. I'm not used to being with any of Tom's cars and having the headlights lit. The battery on the Model 740 is shot so at slow speed the lights were dim but as Jerry picked up speed they got good and bright. In fact I need to get 50 candle-power lamps for my car as I only have 32 candle-power lamps installed right now.

We left Greenbank Station and headed up Rt 41 to Brandywine Springs. Not much activity there so after about 15 minutes we all left to return to Tom's. Tom took a more direct route back while Jerry, Bill, Tom, and I took a much more scenic route with me leading. We left Brandywine Springs and took Faulkland Road to Centerville Road and followed that all the way north to Rt 82. I can't pass up an opportunity to drive across the causeway at the reservoir in the fall and look out across the water to see the hues of color being reflected. From Rt 82 we took Hillside Mill Road past Mt Cuba Observatory, then Mt Cuba Road to Barley Mill Road to Brackenville Road, to Old Wilmington Road, to Friends Meeting House Road to Auburn Mill Road and back to Tom's.

I left Tom's to return to Bruce's shop and to put the car away. As the mud on the road in from of Tom's home from the road construction and the spinning wheels incident at Greenbank Station had muddied the fenders I hosed the worst off. I now definitely need to take a pail of warm water and a rag to the undersides of the car and clean it properly. Things are a mess on the underside.

In getting ready to blow down I found the pilot weak, very irregular, and noisy. Thinking it was a clog in the pilot nozzle I cut off the fuel supply and ran the wire in. Upon relighting the pilot it burned with its normal brilliance and vigor. First time I've needed to clean the pilot. Perhaps the tightening session last weekend knocked some crud loose. The mileage now stands at 50,272 adding another 34 miles today.

The lower stroke setting of the winker seemed to make it wink better as the glass didn't turn solid brown as easily. This may also be some of Tom's oil starting to work into the system as well. While the winker works well at slow speed when the car is first driven, after about the first mile it stop winking unless one drives real slow. At the 3 to 4 mile point it starts winking well again and continues to wink well for the rest of the drive. I'm not sure if this is the oil heating up and flowing better or what the cause might be. Something to be investigated.

The car continues to steam well and run well. Engine packings want to leak and this winter getting them replaced at the same time the valve work is done should solve this problem. The water automatic and steam automatic worked well. The sight-glass on the pilot access door did not cover over with soot and at the end of the run the pilot continued to burn well. With no soot present on the smoke box access cover it indicates the burner is probably operating at optimum firing rate. The car sure doesn't seem to have any problem making steam.

Upon returning to the shop and filling the water tank prior to putting the car away I pulled the water tank level indicator out only to find it covered with oil. I cleaned it and decided that it might be a good idea to pull one of the water tank clean-outs and drain the tank to see what kind of oil might be present. I removed the center plug and found the water pump intake screen covered with steam oil. Remarkably there was hardly any oil that came out of the tank as it drained. It all seemed to be on either the water indicator float or the pump suction line screen. The cleaned screen and plug was reinstalled. I don't know how much oil is sticking to the sides of the tank but I don't believe it to be much. The boiler blow-down did not discharge any oil which seems to indicate little oil is being returned to the boiler.

While under the car I noted the right perch-pole to be covered with oil. This appears to be originating at the front end cap of the boiler feed water heater. The pole will need to be cleaned and the cap tightened if possible. No other maintenance items were noted.