2000 Work Done
January 8
Received 5 Stanley wheel hub medallions from Pulfer & Williams. They are excellent reproductions of the originals.

Pulfer & Williams
c/o Bill Williams
PO Box 67
213 Forrest Road
Handcock, New Hampshire 03449
February 12
Finally getting back to working on the car after a much too long absence. As the front left wire wheel had sometime in the past been run loose and thus has the mounting holes ovaled I removed it from the car and put the spare in its place. With the spare bald and no spare for the car it is effectively not drivable until the wire wheels get restored.

The tire, tube liner, and tube were removed from the wheel. The wheel was taken into the shop where selected ferrules were heated with the oxygen-acetylene torch to cherry-orange heat, allowed to cool, the reheated several more times. This allowed the use of a 7mm wrench to turn the ferrule off the wire spoke. The spoke could then be removed. A total of 12 spokes were removed, two in each direction of lacing, and from all three lacing positions to insure I have sufficient spokes to serve as replacement samples.

I contacted Dayton Wheel Products and Don Sommer as to if they can supply replacement spokes. Dayton Wheel can supply spokes but have asked a couple questions that I need to find the answers to.

Removed the rear bench seat leather back to see how it was constructed and so I can get replacement leather. The construction seems simple enough. The leather is cut is strips and sewn together. A canvas backing is sewn to the leather at each of the seams where two leather strips are joined. Then a rubberized cloth backing is sewn onto that. Horsehair is stuffed in the long narrow voids made up by the leather strip and the canvas backing.

The spring unit's springs are sewn to a heavy burlap covering. Over this is another heavy canvas covering which is tacked to the wooden car frame and holds the springs in place. The leather seat is then applied over this construction and tacked to the wooden car frame completing the seat construction. It should be simple enough to reconstruct.
February 17
Removed the leather side panels for the rear seat. It appears with the new wood and the way the leather is torn at the tacked edges that all of the leather was removed during the 1950's restoration and then simply put back in place. New wood strips behind the side panels and across the top of the car body don't match the original strips of the car. It may however be necessary to now replace both the original wood along the top of the body as well as the added nailing strips as the years and numerous tack holes have deteriorated the wood rather badly. Mice nests were located in the fenders of of both rear side panels. Thin cardboard panels formed the backer to which the leather side panels were mounted.

Removed the leather back for the front seat along with the passenger leather side panel. A very large mice nest was located in the bottom of the passenger seat back. The back seat springs are individually fastened to wooden planks which make up the front seat back. Each of the springs are independent and were sewn to a burlap cloth at the seat cushion end. Then a 1" thick layer of jute was placed over the burlap and finally the leather seat on top of that.
February 19
Removed the remaining leather panel from the front left side of the front seat. Removed the springs from the back of the front seat. Removed the backing from the backside of the front seat. Generally vacuumed up the car to get all the remaining dirt and mess clean-up.

Unscrewed the wooden pieces that rimmed the rear of the car's body where the rear seat back was stapled as well as the top was stapled. By the condition of the wood from multiple tacks being inserted over the earlier restorations and from rotting starting to take place I believe it will be a smart move to replace these wooden pieces. It should be fairly easy to fabricate new pieces as they are rather flat. They can probably be cut from 5/4 stock and then sanded to the required curves needed to properly fit to the aluminum body. The existing pieces were easy to removed as they were screwed into the basic car body wood frame that supports the aluminum body panels.

Unbolted the left rear wheel fender from the body to allow the side panel to be repaired and to let the body side move freely when repairs are started to bring the body back in square so the doors mate properly.
February 25
Painted both sides of the front seat back flat black.
March 9
Jeff Conly and I rode up to Bill Hirsch Automotive Products to look at leather and carpet for restoring the inside of the Stanley. They have an exact match for the seat leather which is a Black Short Grain Landau Leather. The car will need about 250 square feet at an estimated cost of $1,500 which will be 5 skins worth. A thin black leather binding will be folded to make the edge trim for the leather side panels. The back of the front seat as well as the bottoms of the jump-seats and rear floor mat will be Dark Brown Wilton III Carpet. We brought the leather binding and carpet back with us. The seat leather must be ordered in as they don't have sufficient for our needs and there is a possibility that dye lot changes might show up.

William S. Hirsch Automotive Products
396 Littleton Avenue
Newark, NJ 07103
March 18
Removed the braces that held the springs in the back of the rear seat and provided support in the center of the side panels. Cleaned out the areas where the aluminum sheet metal was attached to the wood frame real well with the vacuum, a stiff brush, and a hacksaw blade.

Removed both front wheel fenders and the right rear fender. Put the four hood latches in the Safety-Clean overnight to get the grease and oil out of the internal springs and housing. Removed the front dress pan that is located below the condenser.

It appears that the best way to fix the rear sides of the car so that the rear doors align properly is to install a 3/8" or heavier rod between each side of the car just behind the wood support at the front of the back seat. The rear left side panel has moved out about 3/8" while the rear right side panel has moved out 1/8" as evidenced by the gap in the wood structure that holds the rear seat in place. The sides have a wood screw into the cross-member at the front of the back seat and the screws have pulled out of the end grain. The rod should serve to pull this all back into position and keep it there. Bolting the two steel braces at the front of each rear side body panel to the oak frame of the body instead of using wood screws should also keep the side from moving out in the future. The rod will be hidden by the rear seat support frame but will be visible in the rear wheel wells.

Sandblasted the metal toolbox that will be fitted to the right running board.
March 19
Removed turn signals, license plate, stop light, and kerosene tank from the rear of the car. The kerosene tank had a lot of rust in it when it was drained and the bottom of the tank showed signs of weeping of kerosene. Going to have to investigate the possibility of having the tank remade.

Removed the running boards from either side of the car. Put them back in place for ease of access with a pair of new bolts holding them from coming off as the old carriage bolts were badly rusted and will eventually need to be replaced.

Mapped out the spoke pattern for the wire wheels.
March 24
Took 3/8" threaded rod and turnbuckle to M&P Custom Design and had the left-hand thread portion of the turnbuckle bolt welded to the threaded rod. Using the carriage bolts and large washers it should be possible to pull the two rear sides of the car body back into alignment.

The two steel support brackets located at each rear door had small gussets welded into the bottom corner to stiffen the bend which should keep the rear panel from flexing as much.

Black Landau Leather arrived from Bill Hirsch Automotive Products.
March 30
Drilled the sides of the car body and installed the threaded rod and turnbuckle. Pulling up on the rod pulled the sides of the car back more vertical and allows the rear doors to close properly.

Drilled through the oak frame members where the steel angles were wood screwed into the frame so that 1/4" flat head machine bolts could be used to better hold the angle to the frame. Temporally reattached both angle pieces and used standard bolts to fasten the angle to the oak frame members. The angle pulled the side panel of the car the remaining amount needed for a good door fit. The standard bolts will need to be replaced with flat head machine bolts and some light shimming of the angles done to finish the repair.
April 21
Reviewed how new kerosene tank will be constructed with Mike DeFazio at M&P Custom Design. I have two 1" x1/4" x 48" stainless steel flat bars to have Tony Alvarez machine half-round on one edge and a 14-gauge recess into.
April 24
Talked with Paul Pringle regarding the refinishing of the Stanley. His recommendations are as follows;
  • Strip old paint off with methelene chloride, or Clean-Strip.
  • Sand aluminum with 150-grit & clean with 3812 reducer or lacquer thinner
  • Undercoat with Vari-prime 615 & 616. Give two coats. A self-etching primer. Don't sand between coats but knock off imperfections.
  • Undercoat with Europrime 1120S & 1140S. Building primer. Sand between coats with 180 initially but work up to 360. Dry sanding. Kolar primer is an acceptable alternate (epoxy primer).
  • Top coat with Imron or Chroma 1 urethane finishes. Could also use Dulux enamel.
May 16
Picked up the large nut that holds kerosene indicator in tank, the rod that holds kerosene straps to the mountings and the 1/4" x 1" stainless steel flat stock for new kerosene tank from Tony Alvarez at his shop.
June 12
Industrial Singer Sewing Machine (Model 111W153) borrowed from Andy Parke broke its timing belt last week when I attempted to run it with the motor after the unit had been well oiled three times. Shipped the machine to;

Sewing Machine Sales
7922 Hill Avenue -- PO Box 544
Holland, Ohio 43528

Picked up a gallon can of Tal Strip II paint remover to start stripping paint from the Stanley body.
June 17
Stripped paint from the rear of the car. Found that applying a coat of stripper and then going back and applying a second coat before scraping the paint off with a scraper worked best. Usually both the primer coat and top coat came off as one with the scraper. Then a final coat of stripper followed by a through wiping with steel wool removed all the paint. A wipe down with a wet rag to remove any remaining stripper finished the operation.
June 18
Removed the leather panels on all four doors. Found the front right door actually mounted to the right rear of the car. Also discovered the leather was date stamped with 1950 which was about the time the car was restored the first time.

Removed the windshield glass for safe-keeping. Removed the windshield glass frames and supports from the car.

Continued stripping paint. Removed all paint and primer from both sides of the car to the hood. With the paint and primer removed from the doors I discovered all four doors are actually steel. The aluminum body is the full rear of the car, the supports between the doors, and the panel immediately behind the hood where the windshield is. The four doors are steel. The running board panel on the left of the car is steel while the running board panel on the right is galvanized steel.
June 21
Stripped the Gunmetal Gray body paint from both rear wheel fenders. The tire-side surfaces need stripping still.
June 22
Stripped the Gunmetal Gray body paint from both front wheel fenders. The tire-side surfaces need stripping still.
June 23
Stripped Gunmetal Gray body paint from front cowl under condenser and the top surfaces and one side panel of the hood. Removed the three hinge pins holding the four hood panels together. The front right fender was totally covered in Nitro-Stan body filler. The left front fender had some filler but not a lot. The right front fender has been patched at the running board and the complete fender is heavily pitted from rust.
June 24
Using both the Tal Strip II and the steam cleaner the four hood panels as well as the inside of all four wheel fenders were stripped.

Joe Cartwright visited to review the stripped body and make plans for starting the body repairs and eventual painting of the car. The wheel fenders and doors will be done at his shop up through the primer level. The main car body will be done at Bruce's shop up through the primer level. Then the car will be taken to Joe's employer (Ryan's Body Shop) and have the final top coats applied.
June 28
While no actual activity occurred on the Stanley, it was none the less a busy day. The wheel spokes from Dayton Wheel Products were delivered. They appear to be exactly what is needed.

Purchased the etching primer to start the painting process from;
Terrels Pro Finishes, Inc
2417 Lancaster Avenue
Wilmington, DE 19805
(Terrels is both a DuPont and Valspar automotive paints dealer.)

The sewing machine was returned from Sewing Machine Sales. The drive motor was disassembled, cleaned, oiled, and reassembled. The bearings and leather clutch surfaces are in excellent shape. Ran the machine a number of times while sewing a piece of cardboard to get the feel of how the machine operates.
June 30
Took the four wheel fenders, front valence, and hood blocks to Joe Cartwright for body work and priming.
July 3
Worked on the sewing machine to make the seat pleats to a piece of canvas and then sew a backing piece of canvas on. Things went generally well but thread management will be the biggest problem. I'll also have to take the time to roll the leather and such up so that I can get an even feed through the machine as I sew. Used new needles purchased from Sewing Machine Sales which are 135x17 size and some of the old thread that Andy Parke provided when he loaned me the machine. Broke one needle probably due to pulling the thread when it was moving. Need to try the new thread and see how it runs through the sewing machine.

Thread arrived from;
Synthetic Thread
825 Twelfth Avenue
PO Box 1277
Bethlehem, PA 18018
July 4
Tried out the new thread in the sewing machine. If slides through the machine much easier than the thread that Andy Parke provided with the machine. Practiced sewing the pleats using a strip of cardboard to set the pleat distance. Also tried making a couple strips of welting. Still the most difficult part is going to be managing the sewing thread at the start of a stitch run and at the end as well.

Lester Rice sandblasted paint from the one wire wheel that I had taken sample spokes from for Dayton Wire Wheel. Also tried the new spokes in the wheel and they seem to fit very well.
July 6
Took the four metal panels for the hood to Mike DeFazio at M&P Custom Design for repairs. The flat stock stiffeners which were spot welded in place have started to come loose and will need to be rewelded to the tinwork. The top right panel has had two hinge cylinders break off from the main sheet metal. This is probably due to rust in the hinge causing binding and stressing the metal where it was rolled into a cylinder to form a hinge.

Stripped the gunmetal gray paint and brown primer from the windshield glass frames, windshield support pillars, spare tire support brackets, front license plate holder, spare tire support rod, and both keepers for the top bows when the top is down.

The perch poles on my 735 are a minimum 11' long by 1-1/2" in diameter. Tom Cannard has located a supply of army surplus 14' x 1-3/4" hickory boat masts that may be suitable for use as replacement perch poles. Both of mine are badly cut and in poor condition and replacement should no doubt occur before they break instead of after.
July 8
Disassembled both headlights of the glass lens and internal reflector and wiring. Stripped paint and primer from both headlight bodies and lens rings, both headlight support brackets, the bar between the two headlights, and the license plate holder. Glass beaded the keepers for the top bows when the top is down and the two windshield support pillars to get the paint and primer from the hard to clean spots on the latch mechanism.
July 10
Delivered to Joe Cartwright the windshield glass frames, windshield support pillars, spare tire support brackets, front license plate holder, spare tire support rod, and both keepers for the top bows when the top is down, the bar between the two headlights, and kerosene tank support rod.

I had also taken the headlight bodies and lens rings and both headlight support brackets to Joe but he wants them glass beaded first.

Delivered DuPont URO Primer, converter, activator to Joe. Joe has Vari-primed one fender and the front valence at this point.
July 15
Disassembled the turn signal indicators. Stripped paint and primer from both turn signal indicators, both kerosene tank support straps, both turn signal indicator support brackets, and both spare tire support shoe castings.

Glass beaded the headlight bodies and lens rings and both headlight support brackets, both turn signal indicators, both kerosene tank support straps, both turn signal indicator support brackets, and both spare tire support shoe castings.
July 16
Took Joe Cartwright the headlight bodies and lens rings and both headlight support brackets, both turn signal indicators, both kerosene tank support straps, both turn signal indicator support brackets, and both spare tire support shoe castings. Joe now has all the loose parts which will require preparation and priming before the final top coat is applied.

Worked at Joe Cartwright's shop sanding all the parts he had and preparing them for priming. Worked on the left rear fender but it is dented sufficiently that Joe needs some additional body working tools to complete the repairs.
July 22
Disassembled the spare tire rim. Made three center-punch marks on the inside of the hub directly opposite the tire valve hole in the rim. Also marked the spokes either side of the tire valve mark on the hub with center-punch marks and their corresponding locations on the rim with center-punch marks as well. Hopefully this set of marks will permit the proper relacing of the wheel to occur. This wheel will be relaced to serve as a template before any of the other wheels are taken apart.

Cut the spokes out of spare tire wheel with a cut-off wheel. Spokes came out of the central hub with a little twisting action. However the nipples were well rusted into the rim and required banging them with a hammer to loosen them before they could be removed, usually with several smacks of the hammer as if driving a nail. The hub was ground flat on the inside where running of the wheel loose had allowed the pin holes to elongate and the deformed metal to form a ridge.
July 23
Worked with Joe Cartwright to coat all the pieces he has except the spare tire support brackets and toolbox with etching primer followed by several coats of ERO primer. Once the ERO primer was dry the parts were sprayed very lightly with black paint. The next step is to stand the various parts such that the black paint is sanded off. If the black paint is removed and there's no pitting then the parts are ready for the sealer coat. If pits show then another coat of ERO primer will be applied.

Worked on getting the toolbox lid to properly close and the bottom rewelded into the toolbox.
August 6
Worked with Joe Cartwright at his shop on the two rear wheel fenders and the front right wheel fender. On all three Joe removed the dings and other imperfections. Some welding was done to insure joints hold together in the future and to fill in holes or repair cracks in the sheetmetal. The fenders are now ready for priming.
August 13
Completed stripping the remaining paint from the car. Removed all four doors and stripped each door of its hinges and latch. Stripped paint and primer from the edges of each of the doors as well as from the edges of each door jamb. Stripped paint and primer from the section of the hood immediately in front of the windshield. The car has now been totally stripped of all paint and primer except for the wire wheels.
August 14
Eventually there comes a time when one simply must start a project even though there might be great trepidation. Starting the upholstery work is such a task for me. It was early June when Andy Parke delivered their industrial sewing machine for me to use. Since that time the machine has seen repair and I have been practicing with it in preparation for today. Today marked the time when I had decided I'd had enough practice and I needed to risk a few dollars in leather and duck cloth to see if I could upholster the car and have it look decent.

The roll of Black Short Grain Landau Leather was unwrapped and the five skins examined for defects. Two of the skins had small holes in the leather and will be used for side panels and other small leather items. The remaining three skins will be used to make the seats and seat backs. The skin with the biggest hole was removed from the pack and cut so that the two side panels for the front seat can be made from the piece that was removed. The duck cloth was also cut to a size necessary for making the side panels.

With a lot of anxiety I started by sewing the leather to the duck cloth along one edge with a double-row of stitches. This would become the edge that will be tacked along the edge of the door frame. A 3-1/4" wide piece of 1/4" thick plastic had one of its flat sides taped with two strips of double-stick carpet tape. The tape will hold the plastic to the leather so that the edge of the plastic can serve as a guide for the sewing machine foot.

Once the plastic strip was in place on the leather both the leather and duck cloth were sewn together using the plastic as a straight edge and guide for the sewing machine's presser foot. After the leather was sewn to the duck cloth the plastic guide was removed and the leather was folded back upon itself where it was attached to the duck cloth. The piece was then resewn such that the two pieces of leather are sewn together, good side to good side and the duck cloth is stitched again to the rough side of the leather. When the leather is flipped open again there are no stitches present and you have a straight pleat. This is the same identical way the original seat leather and side panels had been sewn. The next two pleats were sewn in similar fashion making for a three pleat piece exactly duplicating the original.

Next the 3/8" thick gray felt was cut in a 3-1/4" wide strip. Folded in half it was slid into the pocket made by the leather and duck cloth. Once through the pocket it was flattened out and after sliding it side to side a couple of times it lay flat in the pocket. The remaining two panels were also fitted with felt. One side panel was finished and looked quite good. There is a 4th pocket that the panel gets but as it will be a contour to fit the back of the front seat, it will have to be sewn and stuffed with felt at the time the panel is placed in the car.

With the success of the first panel I started on the second one. The leather and duck cloth was sewn together along the edge that will be tacked to the side of the door jamb. Next the three pockets were sewn into the piece using the same process as used for the first panel. This panel offered a sewing problem in that the needle came out of its mounting and stuck in the leather. By luck it happened in the end leather of the panel before I got too deep into the panel's pleat. I was able to remove the needle, pull the inch or so of stitches out, and start over after the needle was properly reinserted. Once this panel was sewn it too was stuffed with the gray felt.

So both front seat side panels are now sewn and ready for installation back in the car. The panels will need to be cut to fit the car and sewn appropriately along the edges where it is to be fastened with tacks. The sewing machine seems to work well. I do have to watch my thread management making sure I leave enough trailing out of the bobbin and needle at the end of a run to properly start the next run. I also found myself checking the thread amount on the bobbin quite frequently. I don't want to run out of thread during one of the runs. As I run the machine more I'm getting used to the treadle's sensitivity and am able to keep the leather moving steadily through the machine.

These two panels represent the smallest panels I'll have to sew. Next in line are the two rear seat side panels. While only slightly taller than the front panels, they are four to five times longer meaning more pleats will have to be sewn into them. That also means more opportunity to screw up as well as the chances of a screw up wasting more leather. Hopefully that will go as well as today's work did.

August 19
Bruce and the family are on vacation in Canada this week and Joe Cartwright and I agreed it would be a good time to get the main car body work done and the primer coats on. Moved car from heated bay garage to the dual-post truck lift in the main shop. Photographed the underside of the car with the digital camera. Removed the valve cover and inspected the valves and valve seats. Found everything well lubricated with no wear showing on the seats or the valves.

Mounted each of six 1" diameter by 3/4" long slugs on the shop Bridgeport mill and bored them out to 11/16" (0.6875") drill size. Brought the six slugs home and with the lathe machined a 0.735" ID hole in each slug. Slugs will be welded to the bad wire wheel hub that was run loose and has the holes ovaled.
August 20
Worked on stitching the leather rear seat side panels. Cut the leather and duck cloth for one panel and began sewing it. I had sewn six of the panels when I noticed the machine was missing stitches. Sometimes a single stitch was missed, other times two or three stitches were missed. I took two of the scrap pieces of leather and a piece of duck cloth and began troubleshooting the problem. I tried all sorts of adjustments as noted in the instruction manual in trying to resolve the issue. Finally I decided to change the needle to one of the old needles that had come with the machine. Success, the machine stopped skipping stitches. I had to readjust thread tensions but otherwise the problem was solved. It is interesting to note that the machine would stitch fine in cardboard, duck cloth, and one layer of leather on duck cloth with the new needles I had purchased. Double layers of leather caused the problem to occur with the new needle.

Once the missed stitch problem had been resolved I checked the piece I was doing against the original and found that I would be short of leather. I had cut the leather eight to ten inches longer than the original panel but the pleats were requiring more leather than I had figured on. This panel was now not going to be useable. I decided because of the missed stitches and now being too short this panel will end up being a pillow or something else at some later date.

I cut another piece of leather and duck cloth making sure to cut it the full width of the leather skin. I then proceeded to sew the pleats into the leather as I had been doing previously. Several times the sewing machine thread messed up and I had to correct the problem. Having done a dozen pleats I was gaining confidence and feeling more at ease with the complete sewing operation. This panel was completed as far as it could be until it gets installed. There was ample leather and duck cloth remaining after making the necessary pleats.

With one rear seat side panel done I got a second skin of leather and cut it for the remaining rear seat side panel. This leather strip was pleated to complete the second panel. Once complete this panel was set aside. Both rear seat side panels are now ready to have the 3/8" felt strips installed. Overall a good day but I've got to keep watching the sewing machine or it will mess up. Haste is definitely detrimental in this work.
August 21
Worked with Joe Cartwright at Bruce's shop on bodywork. Joe cleaned up and prepared the cancer spots at the rear and left side of the car for body filler. Joe worked on straightening and filling the right dress panel between the running board and the body with metal glaze. Found a lot of rotted wood at the left rear door which was removed and will be replaced with new wood and filler.
August 22
Continued bodywork with Joe Cartwright. Joe filled in the cancer spots at the rear of the car with a fiberglass body filler. While that cured he used a body hammer and dolly to take out most of the dents at the right side of the rear aluminum body panel. After sanding the body filler to the general contour of the car body the complete rear body panel was given a light coat of metal glaze. Once this cured Joe began sanding it while I sanded the dress panel at the right side of the car. A second coat of metal glaze was applied to the rear of the car and to the dress panel for overnight curing.

Went looking for natural duck cloth as Jo-Ann fabrics didn't have any. Found it at Calico Corners and purchased 3-6/8th yards. It turns out not to be the same weight material as what I had been using. I won't use it for sewing the leather to but will use it to hold the padding in place on the springs.
August 23
I cut a small triangular piece of wood using Tom Marshall's radial arm saw for the left rear door quarter panel. I installed the wood piece and fitted the aluminum quarter panel piece to it. Covered the dash with paper to insure no primer or paint gets on it when the time to start spraying arrives.

Continued bodywork with Joe Cartwright. Joe filled in the side curtain turn-latch holes with a fiberglass body filler. Joe continued working on the rear aluminum body panel and has it looking rather well. Still a little more work to do to get it complete. The dress panel at the right side of the car was also sanded and coated again making is nearly complete as well. The four doors were sanded and then filled for small dents and such.
August 25
Continued body work with Joe Cartwright. Joe continued to work on the right side dress panel. I completed sanding of the filler on the four doors. Two doors were recoated with filler where there were still low. Joe welded and fixed the pilot access door in the left side dress panel.
August 26
Sanded the two doors that were filled. The four doors are now ready for final sanding and priming. Moved the car back to the heated garage bay. Cleaned up all the sanding dust in the main shop. Blew down the shop walls, ceiling, and floor with the Schramm Air Compressor.
August 30
Picked up the three perch poles from Tom Marshall that Tom Cannard had purchased from me in early July. Purchased a complete front axle assembly from Tom Marshall and picked that up as well.

I removed the right side Houk wheel casting and after letting it soak in gasoline for several hours cleaned it. I removed both bearing races from the casting assembly. Once clean and dry the casting and one of the wheel nuts was glass-beaded to clean it up. I also measured the axle shaft for dimensions so that I could have a duplicate made for the spoke work yet to be done. The wheel casting will serve first as the template for the drilling of the inner wheel hub to accept the adapter sleeves I've fabricated.

The following numbers are on the bearings; inside bearing cup - 412, inside bearing cone - 415, outside bearing cup - 312, outside bearing cone - 316. There are two taper roller bearings for each front wheel and I call the one closest to the axle the inner one. The front axle was supplied by Timken which should make those numbers Timken. There is no Timken ID on the axle. Identification of Timken as the manufacturer was confirmed in my copy of "Parts Needed to Build A Complete 735".

The inside bearing which is the larger of the two has the following measurements; ID - 1.500", OD - 3.25", thickness - 1.375". The outside bearing which is the smaller of the two has the following measurements; ID - 1.190", OD - 2.860", thickness - 1.090". I measured the thickness as the distance from the face of the inner race to the face of the outer race.
September 4
Tapered one end of the slugs that I had drilled on August 19th so that they appear like the tapers on the existing wheel hubs where they mate to the axle hub pins.

Made up a drawing of the front axle so that I can have a fixture fabricated to hold one of the cast wheel hubs which will serve to mount each spoked wheel for lacing.

Made a drawing of where the various holes are in the aluminum car body where curtain clasps were attached so that when the new top is made the clasps do not get placed in the same location where the filled holes are.
September 6
Took the Houk wheel hub, wheel casting, and slugs to Herb Kephart so that he could machine the wheel hub and weld in the slugs.

Disassembled one of the front two seat cushions so that I could determine the sewing construction of the leather. Interestingly the springs that are in the seat have a row of springs securely fastened along the front edge and two sides of the seat. The center springs and rear edge springs are allowed to float at the top but are bound to each other as well as the fixed outside row of springs with small pieces of chain.

Installed 3/8" felt strips in each pleat of the both rear seat side panels.
September 8
Photographed one of the front seat halves as it was partially disassembled.

Made the pleated cover for one of the front two seat halves. In starting to pleat the second seat half cover the sewing machine stopped feeding material. Found the safety clutch had tripped which meant the bobbin and hook assembly might be jammed. Found a length of thread in the hook assembly. As it was about 4" long and not part of the needle or bobbin thread it had to have lodged in there sometime in the past and finally got caught. To remove the thread required removal of the hook assembly from the machine. Once the hook assembly was out most of the thread could be removed. The hook assembly was reinstalled. The safety clutch was reengaged and in manually turning the machine over by hand the last little piece of thread popped out from the hook assembly. With the machine rethreaded a trial run was made with the scrap test sample. The machine stitched fine so the leather and duck cloth was sewn together to start the second seat half cover.
September 13
Pleat sewing for the front seats was completed today. I pleated the seat cover for the remaining seat half and then pleated the complete back to the front seat. The pleated seat panels along with the seat back are now ready to be stuffed with horsehair.

Both of the seat tops and fronts are pleated but both seats still need to have the remaining three side panels sewn on along with the bottom panel. Once that is done the front seat covers can be assembled onto the spring units. The front seat back will need to be fitted to the spring assembly once painting of the car is complete.
September 29
Pleated the back panel for the back seat. All that remains to pleat is the rear seat cushion.

Back in early March I made a trip to Bill Hirsch to purchase the leather needed to upholster the car. I purchased a 15-yard roll of black leather binding. Being a small roll I didn't want it to get lost so I put it in a safe place. Unfortunately where ever that location is, it is also very safe from me as well for I do not remember where it is! Over the past three weeks I've probably spent three hours total looking everywhere; the Stanley storage garage, the lab, and here at the house. I have not found the little roll of material. The only guaranteed way to find it is to get some more which is what I have done.
September 30
Completed pleating of the seat cushion for the back seat. All pleating of leather is now completed.

Experimented with different sizes of jute twine as the core in the black leather binding that makes the welting that trips the seats. Found that three pieces of jute twine slightly twisted did the best. Sewed up four welting strips, two for each of the front seat cushions. Interestingly the rear seat cushion does not have the welting strips but I may add them to make it consistent. One thing became obvious, the 15 yards of black leather binding won't be enough for this car. I have enough for the seat cushions but not to do the strips for the side panels and doors. I'll either have to find the roll of binding I misplaced or perhaps cut strips from the leather that I have left over.
October 1
Straightened and reformed the two front seat and the rear seat cushion spring packs. Replaced all the chain links between the floating springs in both of the front seat cushion springs packs. Spray painted flat black both of the front seat cushion springs packs.

Worked with Joe Cartwright at his shop on body work in the evening. Joe sanded and primed both rear wheel fenders with 615S Variprime to keep them from rusting. They are now ready for a little bit of filler. Joe also completed the filler work on both of the spare tire support brackets and primed them with 615S.

I sanded both headlight buckets, both headlight lens rings, side mirror base plate and clamp channels. After these pieces were primed with ERO Prime they are sanded so that just the black paint is sanded off. If the black paint is removed and there's no pitting or bare metal showing then the parts are ready for the sealer coat. If pits or metal show then another coat of ERO primer is applied. The parts will all need another light coat of ERO prime.
October 7
Assembled the wheel hub that will be used for respoking the wheels and painting them. Pressed the outer races of both bearings into the hub casting. Greased both bearings lightly and installed them and the axle shaft Herb Kephart had machined into the hub. Found a scrap piece of angle at the shop and bored a 1/2" hole in it to mount the axle shaft to. Spray painted the whole assembly with some dark green spray paint that was available.

Cleaned out all the spoke holes on the wheel hub and rim. Used a #4 (0.209") drill for the spoke holes in the hub and a 23/64" (0.359") drill for the nipple holes in the rim. Spoke diameters are 0.204" and 0.348" respectively. Glass beaded the hub,
and tire ring. Found what appears to be a date stamp on the inside of the hub. Inside a diamond stamped in the metal is an 11 over a bar which is over a 17. I assume this means the rim was manufactured in November 1917 which for my car's early serial in the 1918 production (18137) would make sense. Tom Marshall's 735 is Serial Number 18011 and he believes it to be the 5th one manufactured for sale that year making mine the 132th built for sale to a customer. These wire wheel parts are now ready for Joe Cartwright to paint.
October 8
Drilled the brass rod that will be mounted to the left windshield support to hold the rearview mirror. The rod will need to be counterbored as soon as I get cap bolts and know the cap diameters.

Worked at Joe Cartwright's shop sanding the spare tire support saddle castings. Joe sanded and 615S Variprimed the right front fender and the spare tire well hub, rim, and tire ring
October 11
Cut 3/8" felt pad for front two seat cushions and sewed light-weight duck cloth cover over them. Padding is now ready to be sewn to the spring units.
October 13
Sewed the felt pads to each of the front two seat cushion spring boxes.
October 14
Cut 3/8" felt pad for the rear seat cushion and sewed light-weight duck cloth cover over it. Then sewed the padding to the rear seat cushion spring box.
October 15
Worked at Joe Cartwright's shop on sanding the side rearview mirror bracket, spare tire support castings, and a headlight fork. Joe applied Metal Glaze to the wire wheel rim and then partially sanded it. The right front mud guard had the stiffener welded in where it attaches to the running board and the guard had body filler applied where it meets the running board.
October 16
Took some of the the old horsehair that was used as seat padding and pulled it apart and fluffed it up for reuse.
October 21
Cut apart the seat cushions and backs and removed the horsehair from the pleats. Removed any dirt and burlap from the horsehair and packed it up for shredding. Took the horsehair to Dad for shredding when he has the time to work on it.

Joe Cartwright worked on the wheels, and sanded body parts at his shop without my assistance.
November 27
As this log bears witness, the last time any bodywork where I was present was done on the Stanley was Sunday, October 15. While the weekend of October 28th & 29th I was in Columbus, Ohio with Jeff Conly every other weekend I've attempted to contact Joe Cartwright so that work could continue. In all cases my phone messages either on his cell phone or the shop phone were not returned. The past two weekends messages were also left at home with Sandy for Joe to call.

Finally, last night Joe called a little past 11 PM. It was a short conversation in that I had made up my mind that Joe Cartwright would not be completing the bodywork and painting of my Stanley. We set up tonight at 6:30 PM as the time to meet at his shop so that I could retrieve all of the car parts there and return them to Bruce's shop. Tonight, everything is back home and with the car.

There comes a time when enough is enough. It is understandable that activities arise which cause work on project to change. However a project should not come to a complete standstill. It was June 24 when Joe visited to see the car mostly stripped of paint and ready for bodywork. At that time I proposed a schedule that would hopefully see the car painted by fall.

At this point in time the leather seats are waiting stuffing with horsehair and installation. The wire wheel spokes have been here for months and I am waiting on the car's painting before starting on the wheel rebuilds. Any further progress on the car is held up until the painting is complete. So, with all the parts of the car in some state of body repair and the car body itself not even primed, I now must find someone else who can perform the work needed. To that end I've contacted Paul Pringle for recommendations on an acceptable automotive refinisher.
December 12
After picking up the car parts from Joe Cartwright's garage I contacted Paul Pringle by email to see if he had any suggestions as to someone who might be interested in working on the Stanley. Within a few days he had located Carl Kishbaugh who was interested in the job. Tonight I met with Paul, Carl, and Carl's associate Donnie Hastings to look over the project.

The result is that Carl will take on finishing up the body work and painting of the Stanley. He took most of the parts that Joe and I had started back to Donnie's shop in Middletown to work in while he completes a Mustang he is currently working on. Carl will concentrate on the spare rim and get that back to me. I'll then respoke it and remove the other four wheels from the car for sandblasting and respoking. Carl hopes to have the Mustang and the miscellaneous Stanley parts done by late February so that the car can be taken to his shop for work.

As part of our discussion we mutually decided to replace the right side galvanized steel running-board skirt with a new piece of steel. My immediate job will be to figure out how to get the body up off the frame so the skirt may be replaced. I also need to get M&P to complete the hood hinge welding.
December 16
Figured out that four 3/8" carriage bolts are holding the car body to the frame. I removed the bolts along the right side of the car and found that with a little jacking at the rear of the car the body will lift far enough off of the frame that the running-board skirt will slide out and can be replaced. I need to review the bolts on the left side of the car and see what I can do to make that side removable as well.
December 17
Removed the bolts along the left side of the car so that the running-board skirt can be removed for minor bodywork and painting. The body attachment bolt under the front seat will not come out of the wooden frame. I soaked the bolt head/shank with JB-80 lubricant and left the body supported above the frame about an inch by using a 6" bolt on a hydraulic bottle jack to apply pressure for the bolt to pop out. Hopefully soaking the bolt with lubricant and supporting the body through pressure on the bolt will allow it to pop free during the week.
December 24
After a week of body weight pressing on the left-side body bolt it had not broken free of the wooden body. Removed the left running-board and running-board skirt to gain better access to the stuck bolt. Using a rod and hammer I was able to drive the bolt up some in the wooden body. By then driving it back down and then up again several times I was able to free it. Reinstalled the left running-board and running-board skirt. Installed temporary 5/16" bolts with washers to hold the body to the frame until the car gets to Carl Kishbaugh's for bodywork.

Removed the two jump seats from the car for reupholstery. Disassembled one of the seats and removed all the tacks. Cleaned the mounting lumber in the parts cleaner to remove steam oil and dirt. The mounting lumber will require replacement as it is cracked and not in good shape. Considering the amount of steam oil that blows up under the seat lumber I believe the installation of a metal shield will be warranted to help keep things clean. Removal of the leather and padding from the seatback revealed the wooden frame's glue joints had let go thus making the frame unsound. It is also interesting to note that the mounting mechanism for the seatback of the jump seat is designed so that the back can be adjusted up and down. It was pinned in place in the fully down position.
December 31
Disassembled the second of the two jump seats and removed all the tacks. Removal of the leather and padding from the seatback revealed the wooden frame's glue joints had let go on this seat back as well. Additionally the solid panel seat bottom had come unglued from the riser panel and will need to be reglued. Closer investigation of the panels from the seat previously disassembled revealed it too was unglued and will need repair as well. It is interesting to note that the mounting mechanism for the seatback of this jump seat can be adjusted up and down and was not pinned in place in the fully down position. Started regluing the seat back frames.


1998 ~ Mechanical Restoration Started
1999A ~ Mechanical Restoration Completed
1999B ~ Test Drives and Tours
2000 ~ Body Paint Stripping
2001 ~ Body Restoration
2002 ~ Body Restoration
2003 ~ Final Painting and Reassembly
2004 ~ Reassembly
2005 ~ Interior and Top Restoration
2006 ~ Finishing Up The Loose Ends

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