2004 Work Done
April 26
The last entry in this log was July 6, 2003. In the 10 months since that entry the car is basically completely painted. Activity on the car was not constant over the period due to Karl's travel for DuPont and other family matters. Entries into the log have not occurred since activities have been confined to Karl's work in completing the paint work which included sanding and buffing the body along with completing the painting of the four wheel fenders and other miscellaneous parts.

At this point in time we're into the final assembly of the car where I now need to participate since I'm the only one familiar with how the kerosene and spare tire hardware mount, windshield mounts, etc. Activities at this time are centered around getting the brass condenser shell polished and clear coated so that it can be final mounted and the hood installed and aligned. The doors are ready to install as is all the hardware at the rear of the car along with the windshield.

With my participation in the final assembly of the car log entries should become more regular once again. It was June 23, 2001 when the car went down to Donnie Hastings's for painting. I'm told that 3 years is not bad for refinishing a car as a "hobby". Once the car is assembled then it's on to installing the leather seats.
April 27
As the brass condenser shell was coming apart again I took it to M&P and had Joey Pennington TIG weld the joints with Everdor rod. Applied sulfuric battery acid to the copper screen and then Easy-Off Oven Cleaner to remove the oxidation and years of crud from the copper. While at Donnie Hastings's Karl Kishbaugh started sanding then buffing then polishing the brass to bring back it's luster and shine. Once all polished and shinny it will be coated with DuPont Metalok and then Imron clear coat to keep it from tarnishing.

I took a 12-24 tap to each of the door hinge mounting plates and cleaned any paint out of the threads in preparation for the doors being installed. Made sure the new flat-head machine screws would work in each mounting plate.

Installed a pair of aluminum brackets to the bottom front of the condenser. Karl and I then drilled the brass condenser shell and brackets for machine screws. The bracket holes were tapped to 12-24 thread. The brackets will serve to hold the bottom of the brass condenser shell in place.
April 29
Attempted to mount the kerosene tank at the rear of the car. Ran into problems in that the straps that hold it, with tight, still allow the tank to move around. The tank's position also causes the filler goose-neck to contact the rear of the car. The solution decided upon is to place a one-inch Delron spacer between the tank and the angle frame is hung from to lower the tank in its straps. With longer strap bolts at the car's frame and the tank lower the straps should take up and hold the tank in a better position.
May 1
Painted the front suspension where the "cow catcher" mounts as well as along the frame where the front fenders and wooden hood fill panel are mounted.

Installed the car's doors using new 12-24 flat-head machine screws.

Compounded the dash to remove overspray residue.

Karl worked on final buffing of the brass and copper condenser shell and prepared the front fenders and other parts for installation.
May 3
Sprayed the four door latch mechanisms with Easy-Off Oven Cleaner to cut through the years of hard grease and dirt. After letting that sit for a while the mechanisms were placed in the ultrasonic cleaner with dishwasher detergent to remove all of the grease and dirt. The units were dried and then greased. After cleaning the latches were found to be labeled "English & Mersick Company - Patented March 17, 1908".

The speedometer and ammeter had a fine coating of body filler dust under the glass and on the dials so both were brought home for cleaning. As there was no gasket on either unit a fine clear silicone adhesive was applied to the inside of the metal bezels and the glass was pressed into the silicone to provide a seal. Silicone was then applied to fill the gap between the edge of the glass and the metal bezel. After each cured the excess silicone was removed, the glass cleaned, and the units reassembled.
May 4
At this point Karl has the front fenders on, both running boards mounted, and the "cow catcher" in place. Its almost looking like a Stanley again. The front fenders still need final adjustments with the headlight sling-shot brackets and to have all the bolts and screws tightened. The brass condenser shell has been clear coated.

I installed the cloth bumper lining on the body where the hood rests at the windshield area. Installed the irons that hold the top to the wooden body and frame. Checked the door latches for fit. Need to get new screws for mounting the door latch mechanisms and the paint will need to be removed from the latch recesses for a proper fit.

Deepened the countersink on the brass strike plates so that new screws will not project above the curved surface of the strike plate. Machined out two 5/8" OD nylon bushings to 7/16" ID to shim out the bolt hole for the license plate bracket to mount to the frame.

Waxed then assembled both headlights.
May 6
Took the assembled windshield, head lamp units, and wooden floorboards down to the car for installation.

Changed the door mounting screws to 12 x 24 stainless steel oval heads.

Mounted the door latch mechanisms in each door. Had to take a sharp chisel and remove paint build-up so that the latch mechanism plate fit flat on the wooden mounting recess.

Cleaned the threads for both windshield vertical supports so they would slide down in the body mountings. Ran a die on the threads of the chrome thumb screws that lock the windshield panels in position.

Cleaned the threads for both tire saddle support brackets so that the chrome nuts would thread on them.
May 11
Worked with Karl on the installation of the headlamp brackets, "cow-catcher", and aluminum covered wooden filler pieces along each side of the hood. Tapped out the frame holes to 12-24 to accept larger oval-head machine screws to hold the cow-catcher decorative rails in place as the 10-24 screw holes were stripped.

In Karl's final fit up of the front fenders both wheel-well support brackets now hit the interior of the fender so 1/8" (left side) and 1/4" (right side) spacer plates between the frame and bracket correct the alignment. The problem comes with the fenders being painted and now properly tied into the running boards, splash guards, etc. Marked up the plates for cutting and sanding to fit the outline of the bracket's mounting plates.
May 12
Installed the spacer plates on both front fender brackets.

Karl assembled and installed the hood hold-down latches.

I removed the cast brass holders for the door bump rubbers and Donnie glass-beaded them and the door latch strike plates then clear coated everything.

Mounted the lock assembly in the tool box.
May 13
Final mounting of the aluminum covered wooden filler pieces along each side of the hood.

Installed the cast brass holders for the door bump rubbers and cast brass door strike plates. Cut rubber bump pieces for the top bump holders for all four doors.

Installed the front license plate holder and electrical junction box to the "cow-catcher".

Installed all four spring tension hood latches.

Cleaned up the threads of the nickel-plated bolts that hold the windshield panels to the uprights in preparation for installing the windshield.

Karl buffed and polished the brass filler neck on the condenser and clear coated it.

The next major assembly will be the brass condenser shell on the condenser and then the hood.
May 15
There are days when things just seem to all go so smoothly and absolutely perfectly. I guess those days are the ones that make up for all the bad ones in-between.

Put the brass condenser shell over the condenser and adjusted it. Then put the pair of upper hood panels on and they aligned well. Next each side hood panel was attached. Everything aligned fine and looks fantastic.

Assembled the glass panels into the wind screen supports and mounted the complete wind screen to the car.

All together, with the headlights in place, the car looks simply fantastic. As Karl commented, "it doesn't look like Chitty-Chitty Bang-Bang anymore". He later commented that it really does look like a Doctor's car.
May 16
The kerosene tank and spare tire mounts are the only major assembly remaining to reattach to the car. In attempting to mount the tank using the Delrin spacers the tank is still not positioning properly at the back of the car. The tank wants to rotate such that the filler pipe would press into the back of the car. After two installation attempts and some discussion it was decided that the curve of the Delrin spacer blocks which replaces the original wooden blocks would have the curve changed to try and keep the tank from rotating as the straps pull it into position.

Tapped the wind screen support posts holes out for the quarter-turn fasteners for the top until the tap snapped in one of the holes. By luck it was only the end and the piece of tap could easily be removed.

Karl installed the quarter-turn fasteners on the body panels. He inserted a wood screw to tap out the holes and then inserted the fastener using a greased piece of Teflon sheet to keep the fastener from scratching the body as it turned into position.
May 18
Attempted the mounting of the kerosene tank a fourth time. Unfortunately no success. The recut Delrin block has performed as desired in holding the tank from rotation but the tank needs to be lower to provide added clearance for access to the filler. By adding about 3/8" to the blocks (which requires buying new Delrin blocks and recutting the curves) the tank will be lower and should work out fine. Hopefully the 4th try will be successful.

Cut rubber filler pieces for the quarter-turn fastener decorative rings that will protect the paint at the pilot burner access door.
May 19
Tapped out the remaining quarter-turn fastener holes on the wind screen vertical supports. Drilled out the quarter-turn fasteners decorative rings that will protect the paint at the pilot burner access door so they can be mounted with screws.
May 22
Two more attempts at mounting the kerosene tanks. With new Delrin blocks cut providing 3/8" more space at the spare tire side of the tank than what is under the body an fit-up was attempted. The tank's position was marginally acceptable so the tank was taken down and the Delrin blocks trimmed so that 3/8" additional was removed from the rear of the spacers. This effectively puts a 3/4" tilt to the tank to allow the filler neck to clear the body as well as the frame and the cross rod that holds the strap in place. On the sixth mounting of the tank success was achieved. I'd been joking with folks that the kerosene tank now had more mileage on it going on and off the car than the tires did!

Installed the spare tire brackets, spare tire saddles, and turn signals.

THE CAR IS NOW COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED! It was June 17, 2000 when the first brush-full of paint stripper hit the rear or the car and stripping of paint began. After a false start on the bodywork with a friend (now former), Karl Kishbaugh was contacted through Paul Pringle to complete the work. The car was delivered to Karl on June 23, 2001 for body work. Little did I realize the work and detail (not to mention the labor) necessary to restore the body. So, at this point in time, with only odds and ends to complete as well as the pin-striping, the car will be back with me four years after the first paint was stripped from the aluminum body.
May 23
Karl Kishbaugh removed the front left fender for a minor body repair. In attaching the fender to the running board and splash guard a washer deformed the metal as a bolt was being tightened. While it didn't occur immediately, after a week or so the body filler in the area showed a distress crack. After removing the fender it was determined what the problem was and the defective area sanded down, repaired with body filler, and primed.

The other task on today's agenda was the clean-up of miscellaneous parts, pieces, and hardware around Donny Hastings's shop area related to the Stanley's bodywork restoration. In the three years that the car has been at Donnie's shop an assortment of hardware, both ancient and new, had collected. I sorted through it all, discarded the stuff that would no longer be needed, saved what had historical value, and packed things up for eventual return with the car.
May 25
Karl reinstalled the front left fender after painting it on Monday. He continued work on making sure bolts are tight, etc.

I drilled and tapped the kerosene tank Delrin blocks for #10-24 machine screws and installed 1/2" rubber-lined cable clamps to hold the 1/2" flexible metal conduits for both turn signal indicators in place and off the surface of the kerosene tank so as not to scratch the tank. Connected up the turn signal indicator wiring and tested them out.

Slipped short sections of 1/2" ID clear plastic tubing over the 1/2" flexible metal conduits for the headlights and tail light so that the conduits don't mar the paint.

Disassembled the top by taking the canvas off the bows and supports. Found two bows to be cracked. All of the bows are covered in canvas to the metal supports. The top canvas goes over the front wide bow and is tacked to the front edge and covered with a welt strip. At the back bow the back panel with windows in it is tacked to the back edge of the bow. A decorative short "curtain panel" is tacked on with it. Then the top canvas is tacked on over it all and a decorative welt strip applied to cover the edge of the top canvas.

Karl reviewed the top bows and metal top bow sockets. He believes he can make the repairs to the metal bow supports before they get painted black. He wants the wood issues addressed first. A final decision will be made after the sockets are stripped of paint.
May 26
Extensively photographed the bows for documentation purposes. There are 5 wooden bows on a 58" outside-to-outside measurement. The bows, while tapered to the top are 7/8" by 1-1/2" in size. The bows are 37" from the mounting rings ring of the metal support structure to the top of the bow. The front bow includes a 5" wide panel which extends the bow to 42" above the mounting ring of the metal support structure.

Researched the web for sources of replacement bows and information and sent emails to three firms making steam-bent wood carriage bows asking for prices, timing, etc.

Worked with Karl Kishbaugh to reinstall the front left wheel fender.

Installed cable clamps to the Delrin blocks to hold the 1/2" flexible metal conduit for each turn signal so that the metal conduit doesn't rub on the kerosene fuel tank.

Installed the quarter-turn fasteners on the windscreen support columns to eventually fasten the side curtains to.

The original turn signal indicator was gray and rusted. I painted it green from a spray can to protect it. Now it really looks out of place so Karl suggested painting it dark red to match the car color. I disassembled the turn signal unit so that Karl could paint the various parts.

Talked to Art Simpson regarding pin striping of the car. It will be pin stripped on Sunday while I'm in Atlanta at the ATOS Regional Convention at the Fox Theatre.
June 1
Art Simpson has applied pinstripes to each of the louver edges of the hood side panels as well as over the paint line at the top perimeter of the car and finally to the wheel rims.

Put the wheels back on the car after pin striping and installed the hood side hood panels after pin striping.

Inserted a Heli-coil in the windshield to hold the 10-32 screw that secures the glass holder in place.

Reassembled the turn signal unit after painting and checked out its operation.

Art Signs
Art Simpson
90 Albe Drive
Newark, DE 19702
June 3
Carl buffed out the front two fenders.

I installed all the piping that had been removed when I drained the car of water and blew all the lines free. The 1/8" pipe to 5/16" flare fitting on the top of the boiler water level indicator where the coiled copper tubing attaches that runs between the top of the boiler water level indicator and the steam automatic stripped and will need a replacement. With the exception of this one piece of tubing all tubing is back in place on the car. Also reinstalled the check valves in the pumps and the steam gauge.

Installed the three clean-out plugs in the bottom of the water tank and filled the tank with water.

In looking at connecting the kerosene lines to the fuel tank I found they would no longer reach. When the new tank was fabricated I had the two 1/8" pipe ports lowered on the side of the tank to allow more clearance between the pipe and the steel frame rail of the car. I now need to pipe the ports up and around the frame rail so that the copper tubing can be connected.
June 7
Carl touched up the black and two shades of red paint where small assembly defects had cropped up.

I installed the suction and return lines on the kerosene tank along with the drain cap on the bottom of the tank and the level indicator on the side of the tank. The level indicator has not been restored and thus doesn't work at the present time.

Installed a new flare fitting for the 1/8" pipe to 5/16" flare fitting on the top of the boiler water level indicator where the coiled copper tubing attaches that runs between the top of the boiler water level indicator and the steam automatic. Reworked the flare on the tubing that attaches to the new fitting as the flare was excessive and didn't allow the nut to engage the fitting more than a couple of threads.
June 9
Art Simpson completed the pin striping of the car. Added decorative "S" shapes to both windscreen supports; painted the pin stripe across the rear of the front seat; diamonds were placed on each of the top support clamps; a circle on the drip valve handle; accent lines on the turn signal; and REW initials on each front door.

The pin stripe paint Art used is Sign Painter's One Shot. The color is Tan.

Removed the bows from the top bow sockets.
June 10
Glass beaded the top bow sockets. With the paint removed the condition of the sockets was found to have been heavily repaired in the past. There are numerous brazed areas along with areas of body filler. The sockets are rusted badly on the interior and several of the tubes have nearly rusted through at the seams.

Carl & Donnie detailed the car in preparation for taking it back to Wilhelm's Service Center for the Engine Show this coming weekend. Mother's Carnauba Wax was applied to all painted surfaces. A couple of final points on the car were touched up with paint (door hinge screws, rear tire mounting nuts, etc.).

I gathered up all the bits and pieces around Donnie's shop and loaded them in the car to bring home.
June 12
Brought the Stanley back on Donnie's Roll-back to Bruce's shop for it's initial appearance after bodywork at Wilhelm's Antique Farm Machinery Show.

When Marvin Klair saw the car he commented "I never thought it could look that good!"

After the show was over I primed the water system and filled the boiler with water. I then performed a 600 PSIG hydrostatic test on the boiler to insure there were no leaks at any of the plumbing that had been removed while the car was drained of water.

Filled the kerosene tank and primed the kerosene fuel system. Pressurized the service tanks and the pilot tank.

Fired up the pilot and then the burner and built up steam on the car. Drove the car around Bruce's to put a couple miles on the odometer just to insure things were operational. This is the first time the car had been driven since October 31, 1999 which also makes the short drive the first of the new century.

As it was Casey's Graduation Party I provided her a short ride. Also provided Dwayne Brubaker a ride as he'd never seen a steam car.
June 13
Car on display at Wilhelm's Antique Engine Show. Its definitely been a hit with people looking it over, asking questions, etc.

The Stanley was stored in the big pole barn of Bruce's in the bay just outside my lab. To move the car over to the pole barn it was fired up to about 300 PSIG steam pressure. I drove the car over to the pole barn and parked it and then shutdown the pilot.
June 14
Packed up the top bow sockets and sent them off to John's Enterprises for restoration.

John's Enterprises
John Boorinakis
545 Dairy Road
Auburn, California 95603-3593
June 18
Mom and Dad found Fisher's Harness Shop and had them make up four 1/8" thick by 3/4" wide by 28" long black leather belts for securing the spare tire to the saddles. The buckle is stainless steel.

Fisher's Harness Shop
267 Horth Star Road
Ronks, PA 17572
July 10
The Coker valve stem covers would not slide over the brass valve stems completely so a 31/64" rod was pressed down inside each cover to expand it slightly. The valve stem cover reducer nuts were threaded onto the brass valve stems and then the nickel covers installed on all four wire wheels and the spare.

Painted all inside surfaces of the rear seat area with satin black paint.
July 15
Worked with Joe McAleese to make cardboard templates of the curves at the rear of the car for making the new wooden strips that the seat leather nails to. Also figured out how all the old wooden supports and tack strips were applied as well as the cardboard panels. Cut some 5/4" white pine stock for gluing up into a stepped block so that the new curved wooden strips could be cut from the blocks.
July 24
I've been saying it for a while that it would only be a matter of time before I screwed up the paint. Today it happened. I have been worried that the nailing of the strips to the wooden frame wouldn't be good for the frame, paint, and everything else. I'm especially concerned about the doors when it gets time to doing them. In talking to Joe McAleese he suggested I use his pneumatic stapler and finish nailer. He loaned me his pneumatic stapler which will drive 1/4" wide heavy wire staples up to 1" long. I tried it on some wood and it's great in that I can control how deep the staple goes, it will shoot anything from 3/8" to 1" staples. So I tried it for holding the vertical pieces at the back of the car which support the rear seat spring unit. The frame wood is all oak and I used 1" staples which are shorter than the depth of the oak frame wood they are going into. Thus I nailed the supports in place with the staples and all worked out just fine.

Next came to nailing the bottoms end of the vertical supports to that 1-1/2" thick oak frame. For that I used Joe's pneumatic nailer which shoots 1-1/2" finishing nails. I nailed the center piece making sure to drive the nails straight down. Checked all and it was fine. So I did the ones on either side. Again, no problems. So I did the two outer ones. Checked things out and all looked great.

However, a little while later when cutting the lumber for the side walls I glanced at the rear of the car and saw pieces of red missing. Yes, I popped the body filler! I guess it took a few minutes to show up. I'm not sure what happened. The problem is at the right rear corner of the car. I don't know if the nail going into the oak split the oak and put pressure on the aluminum and filler or not. I think the nails may have hit a screw or hard grain or something and took a curve towards the sheet metal. This is the area where the body filler is heavy from where it was repaired after that previous cave-in. There is wood behind this area of the aluminum. Until the crack is opened I can't tell if the nails came through or just what happened. Carl Kishbaugh is going to have to instruct me on how to fix it and hopefully I can get him to paint it.

Otherwise the only other activity was to put the support lumber for the sides of the rear seat in place.
July 27
Cut short lengths of jack chain and interconnected adjacent coil springs of the rear seat back spring unit in an 8-point tie pattern.

Worked with Joe McAleese to contour the wooden strip at the right rear of the body that is screwed on top of the body and that the seat leather and top is tacked to. We also contoured the strip of lumber that runs across the back of the car and is used to tack the seat leather and top to across the rear of the car.
July 29
Worked with Joe McAleese to finish the contouring the strip of lumber that runs across the back of the car and is used to tack the seat leather and top to across the rear of the car. We then contoured the wooden strip at the left rear of the body that is screwed on top of the body and that the seat leather and top is tacked to.
July 31
Lightly sanded the three strips of wood that trim the top edge of the car and to which the seat leather and top canvas is tacked. Drilled holes in the three strips to secure each strip to the car with wood screws.

Counter-bored the board that runs across the rear of the car for a pair of T-nuts. Installed the T-nuts and locked them in place with small tacks so they won't fall out. The T-nuts will have studs threaded into them and then a D-ring attached to the stud will secure the leather strap from the rear most top bow.

Painted the three strips of wood that trip the top edge of the body at the rear of the car. Also painted all the seat support lumber that was installed to support the rear seat back spring unit as the read side panels.
August 3
Carl Kishbaugh visited to look at the damage I had done to the finish in nailing the rear seat back support lumber in place. Carl feels that the filler isn't damaged beyond what was knocked off and thus the repair isn't going to be extensive. He's going to grind down around where the filler has come out, refill and sand the areas, prime with a new ultraviolet curing primer, sand. block sand, then try and spot paint the area. Hopefully we won't have to repaint the entire rear of the car. To do the repair the kerosene tank will need to be removed. When the tank goes back on the car a retainer bar will be added to keep the straps from sliding off the end of the tank. We also discussed making a plastic lined spray booth in the pole barn bay for painting the car. Before leaving Carl drove the offending nails up so that I could pull them out for both end vertical wood strips. The strips will need to be screwed into place.

Joe McAleese and I attached the recently cut wooden strips to the top rear perimeter of the car.

Joe cut four pieces of vulcanized fiber board to serve as support for the side leather panels at the rear of the car. We wanted something that was more robust than the cardboard originally used but is no longer available. Masonite board would be too heavy and stiff. Some 1/16" thick vulcanized fiber sheeting I had will serve well as it is of the era and it will provide flexible support to the leather and felt side panels of the car.

The rear seat back spring unit was set in place at the rear of the car so we could figure out what additional support lumber was needed, how to mount the spring unit, and how the felt and canvas will be attached to hold the spring unit in place.
August 7
Applied contact cement to the surfaces of the four vulcanized fiber panels that were cut out on Tuesday. After the cement flash-dried the panels were placed together to form a pair of support inserts for the rear sides of the car. The vulcanized fiber panels will serve to replace the battered cardboard panels originally used.

Using wood screws reattached the two end wooden strippers where the nails had screwed up the finish. Installed two additional wooden stripper supports to the rear corners (using wood screws!) of the car for the attachment of the canvas that will cover the springs. Also placed a horizontal wooden stripper across the bottom of the five vertical strippers that directly support the coil spring unit. Painted the new wood satin black.
August 10
Worked with Joe McAleese to remove the spare tire and brackets along with the kerosene tank at the rear of the car in preparation for Carl Kishbaugh to repair the two places of damage to the body where the nails popped the body filler.
August 12
Worked with Joe McAleese to put up some 2x6 rafters to lay plastic sheeting across and around to make a quickie paint booth in the pole barn for Carl Kishbaugh to paint the Stanley in and not get overspray on everything in the pole barn nor have a lot of dust get in the paint. Laid one piece of plastic up one side, across the top, and down the side to form a inverted-U for Carl to do the initial bodywork and priming in.
August 14
Set up the bodywork area with Carl Kishbaugh. Ran 400 feet of 3/8" airline to the shop for air for his tools. Moved the Stanley into position. Carl started digging out the body filler and discovered a 4" crack in the body just above the left rear fender and the car curves around to the back. This too will need to be repaired. Upon digging into it Carl discovered that probably the fender was pulled up too tight and that stressed the filler into cracking.

Carl worked to dig out all the areas needed repair. The left rear fender and the left running board was removed to facilitate the repairs. A gel consistency epoxy was applied to the crack area to better secure the aluminum to the wood frame. The cracking occurred where the animal wastes had eaten out the aluminum and a large amount of body filler had been applied to effect a repair. After the epoxy cured body filler was applied, sanded and the surface prepared properly for priming.

Carl then applied primer using a new process that DuPont is about ready to market in the US. The primer (or color top coat of paint) is in a special spray can and is a two-part system. The lid is used to break a piston on the bottom of the can which internally allows the two parts to mix. The can has a 10-hour life. Once shaken like a standard spray can the primer is ready to apply. A special patented nozzle applies the primer (or paint) in the classic fan pattern of a spray gun.
August 15
Carl Kishbaugh and I pulled the plastic in place at the ends of our make-shift paint booth and taped everything up. Turned on the 36" fan of Bruce's we were using (445 RPM) only to find that it wanted to suck everything in. The room was too tight. To make a long story of trials short, we ended up with the plastic only to the floor deck of the car and open below that. We put ropes mid-way around to keep the plastic from billowing in too much. I then jacked up the car and took the tires off.

Carl wet sanded the spots doing the blocking and all. After looking at how the car might need to be spot painted Carl decided the best way was to simply repaint the complete ass end of the car. So he sanded everything down and prepared it all.

When he went to put the first coat of paint on it fish-eyed at the repair spot on the lower right. He ended up cleaning all the paint off, sanding and priming the spot, then repainting it. What a mess. He then proceeded to apply the numerous coats of paint. The last top coat included a 50% mix of clear to aid in the buffing process. He didn't finish until nearly 6 PM. After he left I started cleaning up. I had the 400' of air hose to disconnect and spool up. After the fan ran until 7:30P I had that to take back to the shop.

He left and told me not to remove any of the paper, etc. until he gets there next Saturday. Imron 5.5 takes 5-6 days to cross-like and properly cure. All I could do on Monday was remove the paper from the wheel drums and put the tires on so that I could push the car back where it belonged.
August 16
Completed the clean up from the painting of the rear of the car. Removed the paper from the wheel drums and put the tires on so that I could push the car back where it belonged. Took down all the plastic and cleaned up the area.

The car sits were it has been and the pole barn is back to nearly normal. It looks really good ~ to the point that it was never damaged.
August 18
When the kerosene tank was filled in June it wept kerosene from the fuel level indicator on the right side. At this time the indicator's mechanism had not been installed and only the indicator's brass mounting "plug" had been installed in the side of the tank to close up the opening.

Tightening up the mounting nut slowed the leakage some but didn't stop it. As the internal indicating mechanism hadn't been installed the "plug" portion of the indicator was removed from the tank to see where fuel might be leaking. The gasketing and Teflon pipe dope on the dial section that mates with the tank ring didn't show any signs of leakage. Further investigation revealed the mounting ring that the indicator mounts to had never been tightened to the side of the tank. Further, there was no gasket between the mounting ring and the side of the tank.

The dial or "plug" portion of the indicator was brought home where the float mechanism was installed and adjusted. The float mechanism was "assembled" from several parts of several gauges that came with the car as spares. The gauge assembly involves a float that transmits its linear motion floating on the top of the kerosene to a gear. The gear is mated to a pinion which rotates a shaft in response to the movement of the float. A magnet is attached to the opposite end of the shaft and rotates with the shaft. This assembly attaches to the tank-side of a brass mount (the "plug") which holds the dial on its opposite side. An round copper disk marked with tank level graduations is installed in the brass mount and a needle floats on a pin secured in the center of the copper disk. As the magnet rotates the magnetic coupling to the needle rotates the needle to indicate the tank's level. A round glass bezel covers the dial. The complete assembly is then mounted in the side of the tank and held in place with a large nut.

The tank level indicators for the kerosene tank and the pilot fuel tank were restored and installed in the respective tanks.
August 21
Met with Carl Kishbaugh at the shop for work on the car. Carl wet sanded the repainted area of the car with 2000-grit sandpaper. He then polished it with 3M Microfinishing Compound, followed by 3M Finishing Material, and finally with Foam Polishing Pad Glaze. The interface between the aluminum body panel and the arched wooden wheel well segment were filled with 3M Duo-Pack Epoxy Potting Adhesive DP-270 to insure a good bond exists between the aluminum and the wood other than the nails that were used by Stanley in 1918. Both the right and left rear areas were treated with DP-270. The application of the potting adhesive should provide a better bond and support for the aluminum so that the body filler on the exterior of the car won't crack as it did previously.

All of the paper and tape was removed from the rear of the car. Things look like nothing ever happened! Its amazing the amount of effort that has to go into repairing a small defect. There is a little roughness at the pin stripe line that will need to be worked on. Carl will do that next weekend and we will reinstall the fenders, running board, and kerosene tank.
September 2
Met with Greg Ham who has done upholstery work for Bruce. He visited Bruce's shop to have a look at the Stanley and what is involved in sewing up the seat leather. Greg agreed that the sewing that I need done is something he can and is willing to do. I need to mark up the front seat cushions and old and new leather with how things go together.

Worked with Joe McAleese on making a frame to hold the front seat back springs. Cut and formed 3/16" diameter steel rods into a rectangle with two horizontal cross-members. The two rows of springs will be fastened to frame to hold them in place. Originally Stanley had wound up burlap and stapled it to the wooden panels that make up the back of the front seat. Then the individual springs were simply slipped over the burlap to hold them in place.
September 4
Laid out the front seat cushions and the original leather and marked it up as to how things fit together. Also marked the new leather as to how I intend it to be used for the two seat covers and the seat back. Will take all the marked up materials to Greg Ham on Tuesday for him to start sewing.

Oiled the upholstery sewing machine that I've "borrowed" now for several years from Andy Parke. Ran several pieces of leather/duck cloth through the machine to check thread tensions and generally get the feel of the machine again. Dug out the duck cloth and felt so that the padding for the rear seat back can be sewn up and readied for installation in the car. Installed casters on the four legs of the sewing machine so that it can be moved around inside my lab easier. Also made four small boards with holes in them to keep the machine from rolling about when it's being used (I was cheap and didn't order casters with brakes).

Positioned the wire frame for the front seat back and drilled the wood seat back for brass flat-head machine screws. The screws were inserted through the wood to hold the wire frame in place once all the springs are mounted.

In cleaning the springs and preparing them for mounting it was discovered that perhaps half of the springs making up the bottom row (6" high springs vs the 5" high ones used at the top) were badly rusted. The rusting was from the years of squirrel and mice living in the seat back and depositing wastes on the springs. The springs are 6" high, 4" in diameter, have seven loops of wire including the end loops, and have both end loops closed. The wire diameter is 0.107" which is about 9-1/2 gauge.
September 9
Worked with Joe McAleese to wire the top row of springs to the frame we made for the back of the front seat.

Cut the felt and stitched it between two layers of duck cloth to cover the rear seat back spring unit.
September 12
Stitched the outer perimeter springs of the box spring unit for the rear seat back to the felt and duck cloth cover that Joe McAleese and I assembled on Thursday. Installed the spring unit in the back end of the car and used push pins to hold the duck cloth in place to see how things fit up. With the rear seat cushion in place the seat feels comfortable to sit in.

Source for Horsehair stuffing ~
Mel Draper
7 West Main Street
P.O. Box 179
Jeromesville, OH 44840-9724
October 21
Worked with Joe McAleese to stuff the two leather front seat cushion covers. Using a clear polycarbonate hollow tube the horsehair was shredded and stuffed into about 8" of the end of the tube. The tube was inserted into one of the pockets of a leather seat cushion cover and then a dowel inside the tube was held stationary while the tube was slid up the dowel. As the tube slid up the dowel the horsehair was pushed out the end of the tube and into the pocket. This procedure was repeated as necessary to completely the fill the pocket. Each pocket in turn was filled in the same manner. And finally both leather front seat covers were done in the same manner.
October 26
Concerned about the car sitting in the unheated large pole barn I've decided that perhaps the best solution is to heat the boiler and lines that have the potential of freezing. Several possibilities exist including electrical heat trace wire and fixed heat elements. To start the process I've decided that heating the boiler would be quite easy by inserting a couple of cartridge heating elements in the boiler flues. Two 120 VAC, 600 watts elements, wired in series to 120 VAC at should generate about 300 watts total (each element will generate about 150 watts). This will put 1024 BTU/s per hour of heat into the boiler. This should be more than enough heat to keep the boiler warm on the coldest days. A thermostat will switch the heaters on and off to maintain the boiler at 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The boiler is insulated so there should be some heat loss under the hood but not much.

The cartridge heaters are Fast Heat part number CH43772KF rated at 600 watts at 120 VAC. The unit is 3/8" in diameter and is 10" long with stainless steel braid covered leads.

The thermostat is a Vulcan Cal-Stat thermostat, Model 1A1B9. It has an adjustment range of -100 to +600 degrees Fahrenheit. The contact are rated at 10 amperes at 120 VAC and 5 amperes at 240 VAC. The contact is normal closed opening on temperature rise. The unit is 3-5/8" long by 5/8" diameter. Turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise raises the set point while turning the adjustment screw clockwise lowers the set point. Adjustment is made by overheating slightly and then turning the adjustment clockwise to fine tune the set point temperature. Adjustment can only by set my turning the adjustment clockwise. One turn is approximately 90 degrees Fahrenheit of temperature change.
November 2
Put 6' lengths of heater cord on each of the two Fast-Heat cartridge heaters and a 6' length of heater cord on the Vulcan Cal-Stat thermostat. Drilled the plastic cover plate for the electrical box to accept two neon indicators ~ one will indicate the system is plugged in and the other will indicate when the cartridge heaters are ON. Wired the cartridge heaters (in series), thermostat, indicator lamps, and extension cord all into the electrical box. With the cartridge heaters wired in series the actual heat supplied to the boiler to keep it warm should be on the order of 300 watts. This provides a heat density of 12.7 watts per square inch with the cartridge surfaces. Tables indicate that the cartridge should run about 900 to 1000 degrees Fahrenheit if run at 120 VAC. A Variac or transformer to drop the voltage further will probably be a good idea just to keep the cartridge heaters from getting too hot. There may also be too much delay between the time the thermostat switches the heaters on and they actually warm the boiler sufficiently that the thermostat switches the heaters back off again. Some experimentation is definitely going to need to occur to get the system balanced and operating as desired. The coldest the pole barn has been to date is about 58 degrees Fahrenheit so now is getting to be the time to start seeing how the system performs.
November 11
Set up the cartridge heaters in the boiler and the Fluke recording thermocouple monitor to assess how the heater arrangement might function. The boiler water was heated to between 66°F and 68°F with the heaters cycling on very little. The pole barn ambient indoor temperature was running between 52°F and 54°F during the day. It will be interesting to see how well the temperature holds when the pole barn ambient temperature drops further. The outdoor ambient temperature for the day was in the high 40s.

Worked with Joe McAleese to reinstall the left rear fender, left running board, and the kerosene tank and spare tire supports.
November 24
Installed three heat trace circuit segments on the copper water and steam lines for the boiler. Each segment is a different length and is terminated with an amber neon indicator to show that the segment is powered. A length of 16AWG,
2-conductor heater cord is attached to the power supply end of each heat trace segment using a two-circuit terminal block inside a 3"x2"x1" project box from Radio Shack. The heater cords are routed to a plastic outdoor electrical receptacle box which has a power on indicator and thermostat. A power cord to the receptacle box allows the heat trace to be plugged into the receptacle of the boiler cartridge heaters.

The heat trace is held to the copper water and steam lines using nylon cable ties. Foam rubber pipe insulation is slid over the pipe and heat tape to help transfer the heat between the tubing and heat trace cable. When operating the heat trace tape does not get so warm as not to be able to be held by the bare hand.

One heat trace cable was routed along the water automatic and boiler feed water line from the check valve to the preheater. The second length was routed along the low water automatic and to the water supply line under the front floorboard and down into the pump box. The third line loops around the steam lines for the steam automatic and steam gauge as well as the kidney boiler water level gauge lines. The three segments are attached to a thermostat using 16 gauge heater cord such that the heat trace cable will not be active unless the temperature drops in the pole barn to around 35°F to 40°F (one the thermostat is set). Did not leave the system on since I won't be there to monitor how well it performs. Will also attach a couple more thermocouples to various locations for additional thermal monitoring.

The only things remaining to address are the feed water heater and the steam gauge.
November 25
Activated the heat trace system with full thermocouple monitoring of twenty (20) points on the car. Allowed the heat trace system to be active for about 6 hours. Data taken during the test indicates all tubing should maintain a temperature above freezing when the pole barn temperature reaches freezing. The data was obtained with a nominal pole barn ambient temperature of 52°F and 54°F with tubing temperatures in the 65°F to 85°F range. Another test run will need to be made with the pole barn ambient in the 40°F or less range to see how things compare.

The thermostat that will switch on the heat trace system has yet to be set. The 30 feet of heat trace cable draws slightly more than 300 watts when initially turned on but soon drops to the 110 watt level once warmed up. The cartridge heaters in the boiler flues draw a constant 300 watts when switched on by their thermostat.
December 18
Stuffed the leather rear seat cushion cover with horse hair. Using a clear polycarbonate hollow tube the horsehair was shredded and stuffed into about 8" of the end of the tube. The tube was inserted into one of the pockets of the leather rear seat cushion cover and then a dowel inside the tube was held stationary while the tube was slid up the dowel. As the tube slid up the dowel the horsehair was pushed out the end of the tube and into the pocket. This procedure was repeated as necessary to completely the fill the pocket. Each pocket in turn was filled in the same manner.

The two cartridge heaters in the boiler flues continue to perform as hoped. They keep the boiler nominally at 65°F. The heat trace system has not been activated since it has not been that cold out this winter season. With the boiler at a nominal 65°F the surrounding airspace of the boiler under the hood runs between 45°F and 60°F even when the pole barn ambient temperatures dip below 40°F for a short period of time.
December 20
Took the horse hair stuffed leather rear seat cushion cover to Greg Hamm. Picked up the front driver's seat cushion. Greg has the leather cushion cover all sewn up with the exception of sewing the spring unit inside the cover. Greg's specialty it turns out is only machine work and he prefers not to do any hand work ~ especially hand work that appears as difficult to do as sewing my seat cushion together by hand. About 1/3 the length of the outer side, the full back edge and half the inside edge will need to be sewn by hand. One of the things that will make sewing the cushion cover difficult and getting things to look "right" is that the spring unit is not perfectly square.


1998 ~ Mechanical Restoration Started
1999A ~ Mechanical Restoration Completed
1999B ~ Test Drives and Tours
2000 ~ Body Paint Stripping
2001 ~ Body Restoration
2002 ~ Body Restoration
2003 ~ Final Painting and Reassembly
2004 ~ Reassembly
2005 ~ Interior and Top Restoration
2006 ~ Finishing Up The Loose Ends

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